The gauntlet has been thrown down. In a spectacular showing of extravagance and audacity, John Galliano on Monday night took the notion that low-key and easy-breezy is the way to go for resort and tore it to shreds.
The gauntlet has been thrown down. In a spectacular showing of extravagance and audacity, John Galliano on Monday night took the notion that low-key and easy-breezy is the way to go for resort and tore it to shreds. Or rather, he jacquard-ed, jeweled, feathered, retro-ed and coiffed it to the hilt, while sending the message that cruise chez Christian Dior is far from calm.
Once again, Galliano chose to unveil this particular collection in New York. But unlike last year, when he sent out a perfectly fine but ultratame, Americanized lineup, here was an exuberant feast worthy of the season's now widely accepted status as the year's biggest single seller at retail. The show featured a riotously colorful, lavish amalgam of Vreeland-era styling that combined shades of Marrakech, Babe Paley and house iconography presented against the backdrop of a star-studded front row — Dior perfume face Charlize Theron, Penélope Cruz, Kylie Minogue, Ellen Pompeo and can't-stay-home-stripper Dita Von Teese (see Fashion Scoops, opposite page) — and the gorgeous vistas provided from the 50th floor of 7 World Trade Center.
All of which made for a remarkable, controversial show. Fashion-wise, fabulousness reigned, although some will surely knock the sky-high retro quotient, not confined to the beauty alone. But with plenty of innocuously charming little dresses out there, do we really need more from so masterful a creator as Galliano? So let him indulge himself with chichi hobble dresses or a grande dame hostess ensemble in sumptuous blue-and-silver brocade (not to mention jeweled marabou-trimmed coats over bikinis). Yet, let's not overlook the real-clothes quotient. Prices aside, and these are up there, Galliano offered plenty of dazzlers, albeit for high-profile gals: vibrant suits with swingy or tulip skirts, lean constructed dresses including a bow-front strapless beauty, a jewel-neck smock frock and floaty Talitha Getty regalia. And oh, yes, gorgeous handbags. No one, however, could make a runway-to-reality argument for one particularly outrageous shoe style, a stiletto balanced on several ball fixtures attached to the soles. The shoes proved so treacherous that, after the model Milana Bogolepova fell several times, a guard had to help her off the runway and backstage, where she was found teary-eyed after the show.
Of greater significance than the rhetorical matter of whether fashion needs more silly shoe sculptures is the issue of how resort should be presented. On Friday evening in what promises to be another extravaganza, Karl Lagerfeld will present Chanel cruise at the Santa Monica Airport in Los Angeles. Last year, after six long weeks of sundry presentations, WWD surveyed the industry for opinions on whether, given the significance of the season, resort should be condensed into a more formal collections season, with houses showing either on the runway or in alternative presentations. Many designers and executives noted that, for some companies, even a small third show would prove prohibitively costly. Some also predicted that formal shows could take resort down the path of spring and fall, with entertainment-editorial considerations trumping the "real clothes" essence of the season.But clearly, such concerns don't register at Dior. This is one of fashion's great powerhouses creatively, financially and historically. For now, at least, Galliano — and presumedly Messrs. Arnault and Toledano — want to remind us of that multitiered might at every turn.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)