The gauntlet has been thrown down. In a spectacular showing of extravagance and audacity, John Galliano on Monday night took the notion that low-key and easy-breezy is the way to go for resort and tore it to shreds.
The gauntlet has been thrown down. In a spectacular showing of extravagance and audacity, John Galliano on Monday night took the notion that low-key and easy-breezy is the way to go for resort and tore it to shreds. Or rather, he jacquard-ed, jeweled, feathered, retro-ed and coiffed it to the hilt, while sending the message that cruise chez Christian Dior is far from calm.
Once again, Galliano chose to unveil this particular collection in New York. But unlike last year, when he sent out a perfectly fine but ultratame, Americanized lineup, here was an exuberant feast worthy of the season's now widely accepted status as the year's biggest single seller at retail. The show featured a riotously colorful, lavish amalgam of Vreeland-era styling that combined shades of Marrakech, Babe Paley and house iconography presented against the backdrop of a star-studded front row — Dior perfume face Charlize Theron, Penélope Cruz, Kylie Minogue, Ellen Pompeo and can't-stay-home-stripper Dita Von Teese (see Fashion Scoops, opposite page) — and the gorgeous vistas provided from the 50th floor of 7 World Trade Center.
All of which made for a remarkable, controversial show. Fashion-wise, fabulousness reigned, although some will surely knock the sky-high retro quotient, not confined to the beauty alone. But with plenty of innocuously charming little dresses out there, do we really need more from so masterful a creator as Galliano? So let him indulge himself with chichi hobble dresses or a grande dame hostess ensemble in sumptuous blue-and-silver brocade (not to mention jeweled marabou-trimmed coats over bikinis). Yet, let's not overlook the real-clothes quotient. Prices aside, and these are up there, Galliano offered plenty of dazzlers, albeit for high-profile gals: vibrant suits with swingy or tulip skirts, lean constructed dresses including a bow-front strapless beauty, a jewel-neck smock frock and floaty Talitha Getty regalia. And oh, yes, gorgeous handbags. No one, however, could make a runway-to-reality argument for one particularly outrageous shoe style, a stiletto balanced on several ball fixtures attached to the soles. The shoes proved so treacherous that, after the model Milana Bogolepova fell several times, a guard had to help her off the runway and backstage, where she was found teary-eyed after the show.
Of greater significance than the rhetorical matter of whether fashion needs more silly shoe sculptures is the issue of how resort should be presented. On Friday evening in what promises to be another extravaganza, Karl Lagerfeld will present Chanel cruise at the Santa Monica Airport in Los Angeles. Last year, after six long weeks of sundry presentations, WWD surveyed the industry for opinions on whether, given the significance of the season, resort should be condensed into a more formal collections season, with houses showing either on the runway or in alternative presentations. Many designers and executives noted that, for some companies, even a small third show would prove prohibitively costly. Some also predicted that formal shows could take resort down the path of spring and fall, with entertainment-editorial considerations trumping the "real clothes" essence of the season.But clearly, such concerns don't register at Dior. This is one of fashion's great powerhouses creatively, financially and historically. For now, at least, Galliano — and presumedly Messrs. Arnault and Toledano — want to remind us of that multitiered might at every turn.
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews
@prada is introducing a new project at its men’s fall 2018 show this Sunday: “Prada Invites.” The fashion house invited four celebrated creative minds – @ronanaerwanbouroullec, Konstantin Grcic, @herzogdemeuron and @rem.koolhaas – to each create a unique item with its iconic nylon material. The designs will be unveiled on the runway show, which will take place at the company’s warehouse in Viale Ortles 25. #wwdfashion #mfwm (📷: @martinocarrera)
@kering_official is spinning off its stake in puma in an effort to focus on its luxury brands, the brand operator announced yesterday. “We are proud to have supported the turnaround of Puma, which now has unrivaled capabilities to take full advantage of the specific dynamics of its global markets and is poised to achieve substantial growth,” said François-Henri Pinault, Kering’s chief executive officer and chairman. Artémis will become a “long-term strategic shareholder” of Puma with a 29 percent stake. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
The fashion world mourns for celebrated street style photographer, Nabile Quenum, who died at age 32 in Paris.
Quenum, creator of the fashion blog “J’ai Perdu Ma Veste,” was a fashion week fixture, and regularly shot for New York magazine’s The Cut, among other outlets, and brands such as Louis Vuitton, Moncler and Adidas. He was also actively involved in the #NoFreePhotos initiative, which kicked off in the fall. Read more about Quenum in @kbsmoke's story on WWD.com. #wwdnews
@verwanggang and @maisonladuree have teamed up on a dessert collab called Vera Wang Pour Ladurée. The collection, which launched this week, features a specialty macaroon, as well as a wedding cake inspired by one of the designer’s gowns. “I could not imagine a more delicate or sophisticated creation to grace any couple’s celebration,” said Wang. #wwdfashion