There's plenty to be said for doing things in your own fashion. This season, designers and houses known for their highly specific signatures created appealing looks ranging from piratical jackets to sharply cut camel coats to dresses with big zippers.
Vivienne Westwood: Punk’s perennial princess showed no signs of slowing down with a feisty collection built on all of her trademarks, from disheveled dresses, tartan and stripes to pirate-like jackets. Westwood said the collection revolved around the idea of propaganda and consumerism, and to that effect she outfitted models with headbands that read “Branded,” and gave others bags printed with slogans, such as: “F--- everybody but US.” Whether the designer’s leitmotif made a cohesive statement is debatable. But Westwood delivered plenty of great pieces from tailored jackets to voluminous asymmetric coats that are sure to resonate with her cool clientele.
AF Vandevorst: The Belgian duo of Filip Arickx and An Vandevorst has been gaining steam over the last couple of seasons, developing more variations in its silhouettes and adding a greater range of color. This outing, the two chose to show on an ice-skating rink. And though that challenged the models in their stiletto heels, the visual effect was nice. Camel coats were cut sharply while a flourish of white lace around the neck created a fetching contrast on a red dress. Fur was also a theme, with big fluffy backless tops, while a long dress in a green tapestry was held up with a strand of pearls.
Marithé & François Girbaud: Working the easy sportswear theme that is their signature, the Girbauds featured a comfortable silhouette using full ruffled skirts with lace petticoats, vests and camisoles. Fabrics were tattered and colors muted and faded, from indigo and khaki to red and blue velvet. A military theme meant a hooded parka, while a chocolate leather coat came with Western-style fringe. Skirts with a slightly vintage look were embroidered with colorful flowers, while the addition of big zippers to dresses and skirts rounded out the solid effort.
Hermès is launching a Laundromat pop-up shop in NYC - dubbed Hermèsmatic - where customers can bring their old scarves to be dip-dyed by an expert. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews (📷: @donstahl)