MILAN — Brazenly sexy or incurably romantic — who said you can’t have it both ways? Designers here are trying their best to stir up consumer spending — on the one hand with microskirts, lots of flash and plenty of flesh, and on...
MILAN — Brazenly sexy or incurably romantic — who said you can’t have it both ways? Designers here are trying their best to stir up consumer spending — on the one hand with microskirts, lots of flash and plenty of flesh, and on the other with a sea of ruffles and flourishes. And why not throw in bright colors, too?
Sex ruled at Genny with skirts that were as brief as belts, peekaboo lace and languid silk satins. Grecian-style microdresses were revved up in abstract florals, while a recurring black herringbone lace was jazzed up with gold lamé insets. As for color, when it wasn’t black, it was all brights.
Ruffo Research continues its revolving door policy, so out went Alexander Mathieu, the French design duo, and in came German designer Haider Ackermann. Held, as usual, in a former post office with peeling walls and puddles dotting the linoleum floor, the somber setting reflected the mood of the collection. Raw-edged leathers and suedes, either perforated or distressed, were cobbled into tapered trousers, bomber jackets, trench coats and knife-pleated skirts.
Life, liberty and the pursuit of sexiness. That’s what Iceberg designer Paolo Gerani must have been thinking of when he sent out parchment-paper invites done up like the U.S. Bill of Rights, and then filled his show with steamy girls in denim HotPants, a supershort peasant number cut out on the sides, and glamorous halter-top jumpsuits. Flirty and luscious, the Iceberg girl prefers her heels high, her dresses short and her prints loud.
Stephen Fairchild, for his part, played it sexy but safe, showing gauzy knit tank tops with embroidered silk pants, an off-the-shoulder sweater dotted with buttons along the neckline and plenty of clothes that had a vague military-safari feel. What did it all have to do with showgirl headdresses and crystal-studded eye patches? We may never know. All these props did was detract attention from clothes that probably would have looked better in the showroom.
At Mariella Burani, opposites attract. Featherlight chiffon dresses, full ball skirts and gypsy-style numbers were paired with leather jackets, combat boots and chunky cowboy styles. On a similar note, classic silks and linens, with a wrinkled effect, were set off by big ethnic jewelry. A little editing would have helped this long show, especially since the message here was not exactly new.Full skirts with ornately embroidered hems, sheer organdy shifts and sequined pants reigned at Istvan Francer. He paired them with exquisitely tailored jackets, often embellished with Indian-inspired motifs in black, and burnout velvet tops in primary brights. Francer is backed by Fin.part, who picked him to design its Cerruti collection, which debuts in Paris next week.
British designer Simon Kneen is also assuming double design duties this season. Currently the artistic director at Adrienne Vittadini, Kneen succeeded Francer at Maska and, in this first collection, he focused on what the company does best: tailored coats and jackets, either long and colorfully striped, or cropped at the waist. He paired them with polka-dot chiffon blouses and wide-legged fluid pants.
Maurizio Pecoraro tempered his sometimes heavy couture hand and focused on a sleek cyber collection for spring. Graphic black- and-white prints swirled on silver minidresses and yellow cropped jackets were nipped at the waist, while wide-knit tops in fuchsia and orange were paired with cropped jogging pants. Think Judy Jetson mixed in with a touch of Courreges. With the exception of a beautiful beige chiffon dress with grommet details, Pecoraro stayed away from the ethereal looks that clients like Queen Rania of Jordan love so much. But there were still plenty of tailored jackets that should keep the Queen’s closet stocked.
There wasn’t a steamy sexpot in sight on Luisa Beccaria’s runway. Ever ladylike, Beccaria’s woman prefers chiffon halter-top dresses, flared shantung skirts and suits embellished with jewel patterns that evoke Capri, circa 1940. But she can be sexy when she wants, too, with black lace or embroidered evening dresses. The delicate flower patterns that are a staple on the designer’s runway were a hit once more.
Voyage designers Tiziano and Louise Mazzilli let loose with denim this season. That isn’t unusual for this design team, who have built a reputation with their wild takes on the rugged fabric, especially among celebrities and rock stars. They sent out a dazzling array of denim pieces, from low-rise jeans to floor-grazing skirts, charged up with cascades of sequins, African-inspired prints and graphics — and slashed in all the right places.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion