MILAN — Brazenly sexy or incurably romantic — who said you can’t have it both ways? Designers here are trying their best to stir up consumer spending — on the one hand with microskirts, lots of flash and plenty of flesh, and on...
MILAN — Brazenly sexy or incurably romantic — who said you can’t have it both ways? Designers here are trying their best to stir up consumer spending — on the one hand with microskirts, lots of flash and plenty of flesh, and on the other with a sea of ruffles and flourishes. And why not throw in bright colors, too?
Sex ruled at Genny with skirts that were as brief as belts, peekaboo lace and languid silk satins. Grecian-style microdresses were revved up in abstract florals, while a recurring black herringbone lace was jazzed up with gold lamé insets. As for color, when it wasn’t black, it was all brights.
Ruffo Research continues its revolving door policy, so out went Alexander Mathieu, the French design duo, and in came German designer Haider Ackermann. Held, as usual, in a former post office with peeling walls and puddles dotting the linoleum floor, the somber setting reflected the mood of the collection. Raw-edged leathers and suedes, either perforated or distressed, were cobbled into tapered trousers, bomber jackets, trench coats and knife-pleated skirts.
Life, liberty and the pursuit of sexiness. That’s what Iceberg designer Paolo Gerani must have been thinking of when he sent out parchment-paper invites done up like the U.S. Bill of Rights, and then filled his show with steamy girls in denim HotPants, a supershort peasant number cut out on the sides, and glamorous halter-top jumpsuits. Flirty and luscious, the Iceberg girl prefers her heels high, her dresses short and her prints loud.
Stephen Fairchild, for his part, played it sexy but safe, showing gauzy knit tank tops with embroidered silk pants, an off-the-shoulder sweater dotted with buttons along the neckline and plenty of clothes that had a vague military-safari feel. What did it all have to do with showgirl headdresses and crystal-studded eye patches? We may never know. All these props did was detract attention from clothes that probably would have looked better in the showroom.
At Mariella Burani, opposites attract. Featherlight chiffon dresses, full ball skirts and gypsy-style numbers were paired with leather jackets, combat boots and chunky cowboy styles. On a similar note, classic silks and linens, with a wrinkled effect, were set off by big ethnic jewelry. A little editing would have helped this long show, especially since the message here was not exactly new.Full skirts with ornately embroidered hems, sheer organdy shifts and sequined pants reigned at Istvan Francer. He paired them with exquisitely tailored jackets, often embellished with Indian-inspired motifs in black, and burnout velvet tops in primary brights. Francer is backed by Fin.part, who picked him to design its Cerruti collection, which debuts in Paris next week.
British designer Simon Kneen is also assuming double design duties this season. Currently the artistic director at Adrienne Vittadini, Kneen succeeded Francer at Maska and, in this first collection, he focused on what the company does best: tailored coats and jackets, either long and colorfully striped, or cropped at the waist. He paired them with polka-dot chiffon blouses and wide-legged fluid pants.
Maurizio Pecoraro tempered his sometimes heavy couture hand and focused on a sleek cyber collection for spring. Graphic black- and-white prints swirled on silver minidresses and yellow cropped jackets were nipped at the waist, while wide-knit tops in fuchsia and orange were paired with cropped jogging pants. Think Judy Jetson mixed in with a touch of Courreges. With the exception of a beautiful beige chiffon dress with grommet details, Pecoraro stayed away from the ethereal looks that clients like Queen Rania of Jordan love so much. But there were still plenty of tailored jackets that should keep the Queen’s closet stocked.
There wasn’t a steamy sexpot in sight on Luisa Beccaria’s runway. Ever ladylike, Beccaria’s woman prefers chiffon halter-top dresses, flared shantung skirts and suits embellished with jewel patterns that evoke Capri, circa 1940. But she can be sexy when she wants, too, with black lace or embroidered evening dresses. The delicate flower patterns that are a staple on the designer’s runway were a hit once more.
Voyage designers Tiziano and Louise Mazzilli let loose with denim this season. That isn’t unusual for this design team, who have built a reputation with their wild takes on the rugged fabric, especially among celebrities and rock stars. They sent out a dazzling array of denim pieces, from low-rise jeans to floor-grazing skirts, charged up with cascades of sequins, African-inspired prints and graphics — and slashed in all the right places.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)