Whether understated or with a dash of flash, the New York runways offered plenty of options for spring that kept things easy and chic.
Tommy Hilfiger: A spit-and-polish window display for potential bidders, maybe. A clear statement of his company's direction — definitely. After 20 years and major digressions through rock, rap and the U. S. Attorney's office, Tommy Hilfiger went resolutely back to his roots: squeaky clean prep with just a soupçon of cool. It's a message Hilfiger sent loud and clear on Friday night with every one of his hundred looks, all presented on fresh-faced girls and boys who walked the runway in dressed-down khaki, madras and gingham — Bermudas pulled down just so over the bands of colorful boxers.
Hilfiger found himself in a peculiar position this season, with a yen to celebrate a big anniversary but with his company still in the throes of challenging times. Yet celebrate he did, even if his front row was far from the boldface fest many had expected. (Sightings included TV stars Katherine Heigl of "Grey's Anatomy," Josh Duhamel of "Las Vegas" and Sophia Bush of "One Tree Hill.") He opened with a video montage, its snippets including baby Tommy, a map of Elmira, N.Y., the Murjani years, advertising and a host of celebrities with strong or scant ties to Hilfiger — Jagger, Iman, Diddy, Kate Hudson, Lindsay Lohan and Britney Spears. Then came the prep parade, radiating the same wide-eyed wonder as the video. It was all dressed-down beachiness, its nautical motifs worked in a pleasant mix of low-key tailoring and play clothes, although one did wonder if all those bare feet made a statement about ease, or just that Hilfiger couldn't decide on a shoe.
At times the quest for casual turned corny, and it certainly went on too long. There should be a reason for hiring 100 models other than that a designer can afford to; Hilfiger could have made his point with half the cast. But there's a lot to be said for his happy, wholesome, unironic approach — not to mention a runway populated by pretty girls wearing pretty smiles.
Project Alabama: Whoever thought that city mice and country mice don't mix well would sing a different tune if they sat through Natalie Chanin's first runway show. In fact, the down-hominess of Chanin's hand-quilted pieces played quite nicely with the polished look of tailored jackets, full skirts and belted coats — many of which sparkled lightly courtesy of just a touch of beading. Backstage, Chanin chalked up the progress to her participation in the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund. "It made us think about who we are," said the Alabama native. "And we are really a company that is made in America." Following that vein, Chanin chose Marilyn Monroe, an American icon, as her source of inspiration. Still, the designer didn't belabor the reference, which showed its face subtly in the nipped-waist silhouettes and the messy, but glamorous, updos. Instead, she showed a look very much her own with motifs of sunburst florals, twinkling stars and a diamond pattern. You've heard of clothes that take you from day to evening. Well, Chanin has given us a look that takes you from Fifth Avenue to Florence, Ala., and back, looking just right all the way.Doo.Ri: Doori Chung, one of last year's CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund participants, is a talented designer whose interesting ideas are executed with a lofty level of workmanship. For spring, Chung explored the play between structure and softness by quilting chiffon into a lovely little bolero, trimming a tailored cotton blazer with tulle and pairing a pale cotton khaki with decidedly more flou fabrics — jersey and satin. There was even a touch of that fashion yin-yang in a great belted trench with a collar that bloomed into layers of ruffles. And the combination worked well in a jersey trapeze dress with a constructed satin halter. But at times, the designer complicated the issue just a touch too much, resulting in a collection that wasn't quite as strong as those that have made her a critical darling.
Baby Phat: Fashion is an aspirational sport. And Kimora Lee Simmons makes no bones about knowing that the Baby Phat customer is one who wants to live a Kimora lifestyle — with a closetful of flashy designer clothes and shelves of to-die-for handbags. For spring, Simmons sent out streams of pampered glamazons, the kind of women who exist, theoretically at least, on Rodeo Drive, in Jackie Susann novels and the imagination of Donatella Versace, to whom Simmons seemed to be flattering in her show, or copying, depending on your view of imitation. Not surprisingly, the big-haired beauties were accessorized to the hilt. And why not? The oversized visors might be meant solely for the runway, but not so those aviator sunglasses, chunky crystal bangles and "It"-bag-inspired handbags, which, along with the skinny jeans, denim minis and sexy jersey tops, will surely keep Simmons in her glamazon gear.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty