Avalon Vega: For their first couture show, Avalon Vega's Daniel Fumaz and Samuel François — Numero's fashion editor by day — summoned up the bygone glamour of movie heroines à la Delphine Seyrig. With a focus on womanly construction, high drama came from a billowing black velvet gown, slashed at the back, or a chocolate belted fur that flashed a strip of burnt orange at its collar. As the brand's name suggests (Vega comes from the schmoozy Roxy Music hit, while Avalon is the name of a limited edition perfume by Guerlain), certain looks ventured into camp terrain, teetering on the right side of kitsch. But on the whole, the duo succeeded in nailing wearability with creative flair. The firm's positioning as a couture brand is dubious. But judging by the reaction of the show's audience, which included Christian Lacroix, Lars Nilsson and Dior's Victoire de Castellane, they've already bagged their fair share of followers.

Franck Sorbier: Folkloric airs permeated Franck Sorbier's couture collection, made up of globe-trotting riffs on fashions past. True to form, the designer's open-air presentation in a courtyard, with models standing like sentries, spun a few gimmicks into the equation with a live white rabbit and even a baby. But the fashion was real enough. High notes included Sorbier's radzimir box coat, patterned with geometric colored feathers, as well as a trapeze skirt in embroidered denim.

Stephane Rolland: He's been punching the time card as the couturier at Jean-Louis Scherrer for a decade, and now Stephane Rolland has made his solo debut with a collection that was mainly a riff on le smoking. A tuxedo jacket served as a dress, another was paired with pants and a long smoking dress came decorated with sequins. Other outfits boasted plastic geometric cutout decorations, whether as an epaulet on a black gown or a black plastic bow on a white satin dress. While these were fine, Rolland's other attempts at evening gowns were simply overwrought, overloaded with glitter, flounces, feathers and indiscreet cutouts.

E2: Known for reworking vintage clothes, the husband-and-wife team of Olivier and Michelle Chatenet at E2 concentrated on transforming old scarves into modern-day dresses and tops. Though not technically couture, their one-of-a-kind creations have charm. One standout was a boxy dress that melded old Yves Saint Laurent fabric, a skirt from the Twenties and a vintage Hermès scarf into a confection of colorful contrasting patterns. Another fetching idea — scarf dresses that, with a few tucks and folds, transformed from long to short.

To access this article, click here to subscribe or to log in.

To Read the Full Article

Tap into our Global Network

Of Industry Leaders and Designers

load comments
blog comments powered by Disqus