Jill Stuart: Could Jill Stuart be any more mad for Mod? Probably not, but the clean Sixties silhouette and the big polkadots she threw in made for a cute collection that was definitely wearable, if not a little repetitive. She favored lots of double-breasted coats and minidresses, either slim or swingy, and rarely strayed from her black, blue and purple palette. While some of the patent detailing was a little heavy-handed, the shiny stuff looked great on boxy bags and clutches, which are new additions for fall.

Reem Acra: Here was an evening collection with no histrionics. That's not to say there wasn't plenty of high glam and a bit of Forties nostalgia, but Reem Acra did it all with restraint. And if gem tones are your thing, she made a strong case for them in a bevy of emerald, sapphire or ruby velvet slender gowns. The show's loveliest look, though, was a Martha Graham-inspired, swirling long-sleeved dress in blue velvet, tied snugly in back. Acra placed richly jeweled shoulder straps on bare little velvet shifts or fluid dresses, and teamed black satin (on the back) with emerald velvet (on the front) for a knockout suit that made for an amusing entrance-exit effect.

Thakoon: Often, it's the simplest ideas that pack the biggest punch. For Thakoon Panichgul, it was the ingenious notion of crafting the most delicate tulle into T-shirts and hoodies that he layered under and over lovely loose silk dresses. "In my first collection, I did a hoodie in lace," he said backstage. "I had to bring it back." Good thing he did, even though the rest of the runway was just as interesting and, in a word, terrific. With every season, Panichgul hones his refined aesthetic. For fall, it was how he subtly layered jacquards and prints; cut cocoon shapes to be flattering, not unwieldy, and knew the only way to balance a slim feathered skirt was to slip it under a gray wool tunic.

Nanette Lepore: Among Nanette Lepore's standard girlish fare — strong this season in beautiful plums and chocolate browns — were great cozy knits and matelassé coats punched up with a shot of sparkle.Ohne Titel: Blink and you might have missed the off-calendar debut presentation of Alexa Adams and Flora Gill's Ohne Titel, which would have been a shame because the designers, both Karl Lagerfeld alums, worked a superslick sportswear vision — silicone-dipped wool jersey dresses and streamlined tailoring — that would have done their former employer proud.

Naeem Khan: With "Dreamgirls" as his inspiration, Naeem Khan went for unapologetic glitz, emblazoning his much-improved fall collection with shine, shine, shine on understated shapes like T-shirt minis and fluid, silk gowns.

Hollywould: Holly Dunlap's eclectic inspirations ranged from a hunt in Scotland to the Seventies women's liberation movement, and her Hollywould dress collection was equally all over the place, but her sparkling knit jersey numbers were right on track.

Sari Gueron: At Sari Gueron, structured ease was the name of the game, as hooded herringbone coatdresses mingled effortlessly with cashmere knits and embroidered skirts.

United Bamboo: At United Bamboo, Miho Aoki and Thuy Pham showed a multifaceted collection of utilitarian dresses and coats featuring textured fabrics and origami pleats, but at times the weighty materials overpowered the design.

Benjamin Cho: Benjamin Cho delivered a welcome dose of joyful whimsy with his ladylike sheaths featuring larger-than-life button and jewel accents and one charmingly witty, surrealist-inspired knit.

Issa London: With a range of dresses — from boldly printed wraps to glitzy, funky numbers — Daniella Helayel's flirtatious Issa London collection will likely be a hit among the young and the restless.

Edun: A dinner theater-style performance by The Citizens Band couldn't have been better, and the clothes the band members road tested — Rogan Gregory and Ali Hewson's all-black lineup of slip dresses and distressed knits — were appealing, too.

Katy Rodriguez: The old-world charm and rich color palette of the Gramercy Park Hotel provided the perfect backdrop for the informal presentation of Katy Rodriguez's voluminous jewel-toned silk taffeta dresses.

Adept: At Adept, Joshua Hupper and Miyako Nakamura presented fluid dresses and sculptural jackets in metallics and iridescent silk chiffons, pushing their futuristic angle in the right direction.Staerk: With a rock undercurrent inspired by the band Joy Division, Camilla Staerk offered up some appealing high-waisted numbers, but they weren't enough to make up for the messily draped tops and bunched skirts and dresses.

Erin Fetherston: For her second New York showing, Erin Fetherston showed froufrou dresses in fabrics that appeared a bit cheap, but her PYT friends are likely to find at least one star in the collection.

Matthew Williamson: Matthew Williamson's fall presentation overshot the mark with odd color combinations and prints, not to mention a bizarre range of silhouettes, which included hooded dresses, brocade shorts with jackets and glittering, butterfly-sleeved gowns.

Kai Milla: Kai Milla interpreted the trends du jour in two ways: elegant, high-waisted trousers and pencil skirts paired with voluminous jackets, or overly done knotted and smocked gowns.

Jeremy Laing: Jeremy Laing's well-edited collection of severely shaped dresses, coats and separates was softened by the occasional drop-waist and oversized details including origami-like pleats and geometric seaming.

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