Jill Stuart: Could Jill Stuart be any more mad for Mod? Probably not, but the clean Sixties silhouette and the big polkadots she threw in made for a cute collection that was definitely wearable, if not a little repetitive. She favored lots of double-breasted coats and minidresses, either slim or swingy, and rarely strayed from her black, blue and purple palette. While some of the patent detailing was a little heavy-handed, the shiny stuff looked great on boxy bags and clutches, which are new additions for fall.

Reem Acra: Here was an evening collection with no histrionics. That's not to say there wasn't plenty of high glam and a bit of Forties nostalgia, but Reem Acra did it all with restraint. And if gem tones are your thing, she made a strong case for them in a bevy of emerald, sapphire or ruby velvet slender gowns. The show's loveliest look, though, was a Martha Graham-inspired, swirling long-sleeved dress in blue velvet, tied snugly in back. Acra placed richly jeweled shoulder straps on bare little velvet shifts or fluid dresses, and teamed black satin (on the back) with emerald velvet (on the front) for a knockout suit that made for an amusing entrance-exit effect.

Thakoon: Often, it's the simplest ideas that pack the biggest punch. For Thakoon Panichgul, it was the ingenious notion of crafting the most delicate tulle into T-shirts and hoodies that he layered under and over lovely loose silk dresses. "In my first collection, I did a hoodie in lace," he said backstage. "I had to bring it back." Good thing he did, even though the rest of the runway was just as interesting and, in a word, terrific. With every season, Panichgul hones his refined aesthetic. For fall, it was how he subtly layered jacquards and prints; cut cocoon shapes to be flattering, not unwieldy, and knew the only way to balance a slim feathered skirt was to slip it under a gray wool tunic.

Nanette Lepore: Among Nanette Lepore's standard girlish fare — strong this season in beautiful plums and chocolate browns — were great cozy knits and matelassé coats punched up with a shot of sparkle.

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