NEW YORK — Dresses in ladylike silhouettes prevailed for spring at the Nouveau Collective trade show.
The exhibition, which ran from Sept. 16 to 18 on the second and third floors of the New Yorker Hotel, attracted 1,200 buyers. There were about 325 labels on display, including Donna Morgan, Insight, Carine, Mycra Pac, Nicola Berti, White Rice, Magdalena, Tianello and Spa Sweats, and 22 first-time exhibitors such as Dilemma, After Glo and Wanda Webb, according to the show's producer Joanne Feinstein.
Even though it was all about the dress for spring, whether a novelty lace tunic from Surrealist or a Mod-inspired shift from Donna Morgan, pants continue to make a comeback. Pants were available in both narrow and wide-leg styles, and regarding color, designers can do no wrong when pairing up classic black and white.
Still in line with fall's return to more body-conscious shapes, Donna Morgan showed designs that were more tailored to a woman's figure. The collection included sleeveless ponte knit dresses in bold black-and-white designs that had a Sixties vibe without being too over the top, as well as solid styles with metallic accents such as exposed zippers and oversize gold buttons, both wholesaling for $59.
"This was a shock," said Insight's vice president of sales, Yvette Gettinger, of the company's best-selling spring item, "It's the illusion of a high-waisted pencil skirt, with patent leather detailing, because shine is very, very strong. It's phenomenal." The skirt, which comes in black and brown and wholesales for $39, gives off the appearance of having a high waist even though it falls at the natural waist. Other big sellers for Insight were the pleated French coat, a bi-stretch topper with slit button detailing and pleating in the back, wholesaling for $78, and the wide-leg pant, wholesaling for $34. Insight is available at Nancy & Co. in New York and Jonathan in Redondo Beach, Calif.
"We do substantial volume with Insight. It's a great fit and the margin is extraordinary," said Marcie Brawer, co-owner and buyer of The Studio in Brookline, Mass. "We do enormously well with Insight. We are fitting younger girls and older women, mothers and daughters."Brawer and her best friends, twin sisters Sandy Gradman and Ilene Epstein, have owned The Studio for the past 28 years. In addition to ordering the pencil skirt, French coat and wide-leg trousers from Insight, the three placed orders with Curio, Andrea Lieu and Mycra Pac.
"Our spring trends are shine, animal, texture, metal, waxed linen and a plethora of color," said Sharon Huebschwerlen of Mycra Pac, summing up the collection. Bestsellers at Mycra Pac, known for its travel friendly, reversible raincoats, included the "Donatella," a metallic rose jacquard theater coat, wholesaling for $195; "Frankie the Tulip," a high-low hem coat with square buttons, wholesaling for $145, and the short and long parachute coat with a hood that tucks up into the collar, wholesaling for $105 and $120, respectively.
For her Beach Haven, N.J., store, Indian Summer, owner Marla Wink purchased plenty of lightweight, printed dresses in shades of blue, brown and white. "I bought very light, very colorful, and flowy dresses for the spring," said Wink, who has owned her own store for 21 years. "I am at the beach, so I buy a lot of rayon dhobi blend dresses and skirts from White Rice."
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)
@heriethpaul and @gracebol have a moment on the @victoriassecret fashion show 2017. See every look from the runway on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo) #wwdfashion #victoriassecret #VSFashionShow
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia