NEW YORK -- Activewear fibers, lightweight shapewear and a continuing ready-to-wear statement are in the spotlight at DuPont's fall 1995 Intimate Apparel Workshop.
The workshop, entitled "Odyssey," is a series of trend presentations by Iris LeBron, DuPont's fashion director of intimate apparel and activewear.
The presentation, which opened April 27 and closes June 9, is being staged for retailers, innerwear manufacturers and mill executives at DuPont's temporary showroom here at 35 West 36th St. The company is relocating its entire New York offices to 1470 Broadway in September.
The workshop opens with a video that charts fashion, fabrics and color direction showing three groups:
"Eco/Trend," a theme that mixes naturals with metallics inspired by technology.
"Body Chemistry," a group that highlights activewear fibers, such as CoolMax nylon with Lycra spandex and Supplex nylon with Lycra.
"Travelers," a group that focuses on a multicultural message and rtw theme.
LeBron singled out "Eco/Trend" as the most directional group, noting, "The mixes of the old -- natural fabrics and colors -- with the new -- stretch fabrics and metallic colors -- gives lingerie a totally different look."
Colors spotlighted in the group include matte neutrals and heathers teamed with dull-shine silver, gold and copper. The matte-and-shine mixes of neutrals and metallics were shown in jacquard-pattern knits making lightweight power-net control garments with a pretty, lingerie look. Lightweight bodyshapers are a significant trend as they attract a younger woman, expanding the consumer base for this kind of garment.
Activewear fabrics done in lighter weights are a key part of the "Body Chemistry" group.
As an example, LeBron displayed an 83-denier Supplex nylon as adaptable for lingerie, compared with a heavier weight 87-denier Supplex nylon that is typically utilized for activewear.
"Performance fibers are coming into the bra and panties market," remarked LeBron.
She added that surface texture will be important as well, especially bi-color laces, embroidered laces and large, cut-out lace patterns.
The color palette includes black, white and a range of blues.
The third group, "Travelers," keeps the innerwear-outerwear idea going in rich, deep colors, especially brown and gray. In this group, the rtw story continues primarily in sleepwear and at-home wear looks such as bed jackets or easy pajamas that look like sportswear."There will still be a very strong multicultural message next fall," predicted LeBron, "especially in prints and patterns."
She singled out dramatic leaf motifs, exotic florals, and dots and stripes, mingling touches of varied cultures.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
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Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast