MILAN — The newly freestanding trade fair, White, has become a focal point for buyers seeking cutting-edge fashions.
Held Sept. 27 to 30 at the Superstudio Più in the city’s Navigli (canal) area during fashion week and concurrent with the MoMi show, from which it broke away, White attracted 4,952 visitors from 55 countries who came to view 108 collections from emerging international designers.
Exhibitors included Italy’s Henry Beguelin, Great Britain’s Juicy Couture and France’s Queen Capucine, as well as a host of lesser-known names.
Buyers spotted walking the aisles — laid out like a racetrack with starting and finishing posts — included Rosi Biffi of Biffi, here, and representatives from Barneys New York, Henri Bendel, Neiman Marcus in the U.S. and Joyce in Hong Kong.
"White was previously a subsection of MoMi, but there was a danger that MoMi would suffocate the trendsetting zone," said Luigi Ciocca, president of Efima, one of the organizations behind both shows. "We wanted a different atmosphere with later opening hours and a late-opening bar attracting a buzzier clientele."
"White has a great pool of small, interesting fashion houses and it bodes well for the future," said Roberta Valentini, owner of Brescia’s trendsetting Penelope boutique. "I noted many ethnic, Central American looks, artisan-made pieces and lots of leather."
Other trends at White included long skirts, dresses and baggy pants with elasticized hems, garments with cutout details, cargo pants and military coats. While white, black and neutrals dominated, splashes of turquoise, sky, purple, orange and spring green punctuated the racks.
Milan-based designer Yuko Akaba of Akaba said that a representative from Barneys had shown interest in feminine summer dresses with brightly colored embroidery and prints.
"Buyers liked a cream cotton halterneck dress with embroidered red daisies and a cotton jersey dress with a colorful Easter-egg print," said Akaba, who previously designed for Aspesi.
"We are pleased with business at the fair, although we didn’t see our U.S. clients here," said owner-designer Fulvia Marengo of Bologna-based company Flu’s Ear. We already sell accessories to Barneys, Saks and Takashimaya, but we’re looking for an agent to help us expand to the East and West Coasts. About 10 percent of sales are to the U.S."Popular pieces included a three-quarter-length military coat in lightweight khaki cotton drill, and anything with hand-finishing.
At Block 60 of Riccione, produced by Iceberg’s Gilmar, T-shirts with cutout details had sold particularly well. A long tube dress in apple green with an elasticized lower hem, and a knee-length Prince of Wales check skirt with a ragged side zip also created interest.
Block 60 already sells to Untitled in Chicago and Vice in Los Angeles and New York.
Collection Privée by Massimo Bizzi featured a three-quarter-length turquoise suede coat with zip pockets and combat details. Despite a wholesale price of about $620, the coat met the universal demand for special pieces and was eliciting interest.
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion
Eighty degree temperatures and outdoor installations at the annual Art Basel Miami Beach called for bright, elevated beachwear. See more street style pictures on WWD.com. #theyarewearing #ABMB (📷: @lifeinreverie)
Following September’s emotional tribute to her brother Gianni, Donatella Versace wanted to bring the spring show’s deep sense of intimacy to her @versace_official pre-fall collection. Donatella found inspiration in Versace Palazzo in Milan and from Gianni’s opulent apartment. Archival patterns and new motifs were splashed on silk shirtdresses and fitted jersey frocks. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com. #wwdfashion
Demna Gvasalia continues to shake up the Paris fashion calendar — and experiment with new runway timetables for his @vetements_official brand. WWD has learned that Vetements plans to stage its next coed show for the fall 2018 season on January 19 during Men’s Fashion Week in the French capital. Details about the timing and venue have not been confirmed — stay tuned on WWD.com to catch the latest. #wwdnews (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
@zacposen's go-to holiday gift? Cookies! "I'll usually bake cookies and send them as a gift," said the designer, who recently released his cookbook "Cooking With Zac: Recipes from Rustic to Refined." Get the recipe for his Brown Butter-Chocolate Chip Cookies via link in bio 🍪🍪🍪 #wwdeye #cookingwithzac
For @monsemaison’s pre-fall 2018 collection, Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim honed in on the brand’s many signatures — men’s wear, which was tweaked and feminized through deconstruction, proportion play and lots of bare shoulders. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
On Friday night, @yohjiyamamotoofficial received the Design for Asia Lifetime Achievement Award in Hong Kong. The 75-year-old designer has been celebrated for many years and is best known for his dark and avant-garde tailoring. “In my long career, in design, architecture, [I’ve been to] so many parties, this is the very first time that I have such a warm feeling, I really appreciate this,” Yamamoto said. #wwdfashion (📷: @dominiquemaitre)