LONDON — Maybe it's the fragile nature of the world today, with heightened security and global flash points, that's making Britain's jewelry designers turn to delicate creations.
At the latest edition of Goldsmiths' Fair, the annual London showcase of U.K.-based emerging jewelry designers, the stands were filled with the most dainty of designs, including Tom Rucker's rings handmade from a crosshatch of fine platinum wire; Lilly Hastedt's barely-there gold chain bracelets dotted with peridots, tourmalines and diamonds, and Kelvin J. Birk's crushed and pulverized gemstone rings.
The fair, which celebrated its 25th anniversary this year, has long been a hunting ground for new talent and helped give designers such as Stephen Webster his start. This year, exhibitors included Jacqueline Cullen, who works with jet and has shown at the Donna Karan store in London, and Shaun Leane, who has worked with Alexander McQueen on his runway jewelry and props.
The fair is run by the Goldsmiths' Company, which has been responsible for hallmarking since 1300, and supports the craft and industry of precious metal jewelry. The exhibition takes place at the palazzo-like Goldsmiths' Hall in the City of London, on a site that has belonged to the company since 1339.
Some 160 designers showed from Sept. 24 through Sunday and the standouts included Kayo Saito, who said she wants her gold wire and freshwater pearl necklaces to be like "a floating mist" around the neck, and other silver necklaces to look like "leaf" skeletons.
"I like fragility, but wearable fragility," Saito said. "My jewelry is also strong because it has to be worn."
Rucker's delicate platinum rings and necklaces are laser-welded and look as if they could dissolve in the palm of one's hand.
"They look so delicate, but they're rock solid," said Rucker, whose inspiration is the legendary American architect and designer Richard Buckminster Fuller.
Ruth Tomlinson's jewelry has a delicate, organic feel. She often recycles old jewelry, stones, pearls or antique glass to make her rings and bracelets. She shapes her 24-karat jewelry by allowing small particles of gold to fuse together in a water tank."The whole feel of the collection is of treasures that might have been discovered," she said.
Taking the final spot on the mens’ portion of New York Fashion Week calendar next month will be none other than @tomford. Though he’s shown his men’s wear in New York in the past, this will mark the first time the designer has shown his men’s collection alone during New York Fashion Week: Men’s. His runway show will debut on February 6 at the Park Avenue Armory. #wwdfashion
London-based couture house @ralphandrusso has certainly been in the spotlight, having its dresses worn by @beyonce, Angelina Jolie, Meghan Markle in her engagement photos and more. For couture, Tamara Ralph focused on ornamentation — think: feathers with chain mail, jet embroidery and clusters of pearls and crystals. See the rest of the collection on WWD.com #wwdfashion #couture (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
Minnie Mouse celebrated her 90th birthday by getting her own star on the Hollywood Walk of Fame. For her celebratory luncheon, @coach’s creative director @stuartvevers dressed her in a custom made prairie dress, complete with Vever’s take on the polka dot – black sequined versions – under a cropped motorcycle jacket. The designer also put his own mark on Minnie’s classic red shoes, infusing the color with sparkles and adding some Coach crystals. “We chose colors that were very Minnie and also represented quintessential Coach elements,” said Vevers. #wwdfashion #nationalpolkadotday (📷: George Chinsee)
@nickjonas is unveiling his first-ever apparel collection through a partnership with John Varvatos. The limited-edition capsule, which makes its debut in spring, also marks the first time the designer has collaborated with anyone on a line. “The process in working with Nick is amazing. It’s inspiring to be around someone who is not only connected with the trade that they do, but also with what’s happening in the environment around him, and how that connects to what we do with style,” said Varvatos. (RG: @johnvarvatos) #wwdfashion
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)