Something for everyone, indeed. From drop-dead lace gowns to sportif stripes, designers are delivering looks for Ladies Who Lunch as well as downtown hipsters.
J.Mendel: Whatever the weather, Gilles Mendel knows how to keep his furs cool. And for spring, that means making even the most luxurious of them fun, young and light as the proverbial feather. How about a white mink cardigan over a pale gray chiffon Windbreaker and white cotton shorts, or a slate broadtail coat paired with a sequined T and cotton shorts? The designer paid plenty of attention to his ready-to-wear, too, trimming cotton jackets or coats with python or plastic borders, and cutting a great raincoat in white lacquered chiffon. He showed some very pretty silk evening gowns — the most special, a mousseline and Chantilly lace pleated peasant number. While Mendel continues to broaden his scope, he is still best known as a fur designer. And with good reason.
Tracy Reese: With her strong penchant for ladylike wares, Tracy Reese took the audience on a delightful stroll from the Forties through the Seventies. It was pure retro-sportif — without a bit of the kitsch factor that can often weigh down a collection. A standout Lauren Bacall-worthy linen sailor suit was followed by a slew of pretty dresses that spun stylishly through the decades, whether sequined, swingy or with sweet scallop trims.
Zero + Maria Cornejo: Maria Cornejo has become a fashion darling with her Zero + Maria Cornejo collections, probably because she has that special knack for making the simplest silhouettes fun and interesting, and her more complicated designs, effortless. The result: clothes that look as terrific as they are easy to wear. In her softened architectural spring mode, the designer focused on boldly printed box-shaped dresses; she also went for volume and draping above the waist in tops over skinny skirts or slim-skirted dresses. Cornejo showed her spirited side with free-wheeling, swingy rain jackets in patent leather that were first rate. All of it was shown with ballet flats or sandals and socks — underscoring Cornejo's comfort factor.
Cynthia Rowley: Cynthia Rowley is living la vie sportive — Seventies style. Though it's been a decade long mined by designers, she managed to offer a refreshing take: slouchily cool suits, wide-leg trousers, long cardigans and separates in the vein of a latter-day Annie Hall. However, she could have done without those overly fringed dresses; they made one want to take a pair of scissors to them. But even with such missteps, Rowley delivered a strong showing — right down to the delightful end when she and the models bicycled off the runway in their sporty best.MaxAzria: Max and Lubov Azria channeled the boudoir for their sensually silky collection of lingerie-inspired looks. But these are not for sleepy-time gals. Using a dreamy palette of pale pinks and cloudy grays, the Azrias created ethereal shapes for a confident woman who can dance the night away in pretty little satin under-things-as-outer-things. Weightless slipdresses were pieced together with intricate paneling and pleated and textured insets, creating a subtle color-blocked effect. The designers also played with ombré silks, using the shaded effect at the hems of miniskirts or to emphasize the sleeves of belted overblouses. It was all pretty and romantic, though some of those shimmering dresses had a hint of Miu Miu past.
Behnaz Sarafpour: After last season's detour into dark, Gothic territory, Behnaz Sarafpour took a fresh and natural approach to spring, literally. She defied the styleless-eco-fashion stigma with her first five looks that included pieces from her debut capsule organic collection. They featured all-natural fabrics embellished with turquoise and malachite embroideries, and a jungle print dyed au naturel, using crushed insects and marigolds for pigment. The "green" looks — a pleated A-line skirt and waffle-weave wrap dress, in particular — were just as chic as the rest of the lineup. The nature theme continued throughout with polished rattan jackets and pretty green and white ombré tank dresses that were all about clean lines and zero crunch factor.
Ports 1961: A little subtlety would have done wonders for Tia Cibani's safari-themed collection. Her African inspiration came on strong — like too much cologne — from the styling (one head wrap too many) to the cutesy run-of-show names (Masai gingham, anyone?). The prettiest looks, like a lace brocade coat and effortless silk ombré dresses, were lost in an onslaught of extreme draping and twisting. And while petal embellishments made from the fingertips of surgical gloves were eco-witty, there's such a thing as too many tricks up one's sleeve.
Liz Claiborne: The first Liz Claiborne collection under the guidance of chief creative officer Tim Gunn honored the megabrand's founding principles and the late Claiborne herself. The design team certainly considered its customer: the working woman who wants to dress her age without feeling uptight or matronly. Thus, there were great basics — feminine cardigans, tailored pants and shift dresses in various volumes. Graphic prints and bold yellows and greens added oomph to the otherwise understated palette, and a cool factor was achieved with patent-leather jackets and a great slate trench in a techy nylon.
@chanel and @pharrell dropped what’s being dubbed as the world’s most exclusive sneakers yesterday. The Adidas Originals NMD Hu, which Williams designed in collaboration with Chanel and @adidasoriginals, has a waiting list of over 120K people who pre-registered online at chanelatcolette.fr –– and only 500 pairs are on sale. The singer predicted the resale value of the shoes could reach $40K. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Dominique Maître)
@imanshumpert is diving deeper into his creative endeavors and relaunching his clothing line, Post 90s, and is helping to raise money for the hurricane victims in St. Maarten with a jersey he’s designed with his brother. The Cleveland Cavaliers player talked to WWD about kneeling during the national anthem, working with fashion brands and how he wants to be more than an @nba player. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: George Chinese)
Not only does #TheProfit return to CNBC tonight, but @marcuslemonis has launched @shopmarcus, a new shopping and lifestyle retail experience in Aspen and Chicago, with more locations to come. The retail stores offer in-store stylists and a variety of contemporary womenswear selections.
“It’s life, I’m going to face it,” @mingxi11 sighed. “I fell, but you know, I think the most important thing is that I get back up. I had the love, the help from my sister — the girl next to me Gizele [Oliveira] — she’s so nice. When I went backstage everybody was trying to comfort me like ‘Oh Ming, it’s OK.’ I’m really, really touched. I think it’s them who gave me the courage to go back on stage for the finale,” Xi told WWD of her fall at the @victoriassecret fashion show. (📷: David Fisher) #wwdfashion #vsfashionshow #victoriassecret
@louisvuitton tapped @therealpeterlindbergh for its latest city-centric photo book, which is part of a series called Fashion Eye. The primarily black and white book captures the spirit of Berlin in 57 images shot between 1989 and 2019. “Berlin is an inspiration for me, more than a city. I mean @millajovovich is simply Berlin!” said Lindbergh. #wwdfashion
“You know, I think audiences expect a certain performance so I have to deliver to them what they’re expecting to a certain degree. But I’m also a different actor and a different person, I have my own spin on the character,” says @noahegalvin of his takeover of the leading role in “Dear Evan Hansen” following the departure of @bensplatt, who originated the role. Read WWD’s interview with the 23-year-old actor on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
For pre-fall 2018, @etro created richly-colored wonderland, using tapestries, textiles and wallpapers from the Eastern world at large. The line featured floral and graphic prints and jacquard motifs, like this two-piece look featured here. #wwdfashion (📷: Giovanna Pavesi)
@kith is moving into children’s. The men’s and women’s streetwear brand has launched Kidset, a Kith kids line located in New York at 64 Bleecker Street. The line includes mini versions of staple Kith pieces like the Astor bomber jacket and the Kith box logo sweatshirts, along with a wall that can display up to 120 pairs of shoes from @adidas, @newbalance, @timberland and more. #wwdfashion
“I just wanted to create this fully rounded character, but I do think what excited me most was just the opportunity to give a group of people representation that I feel needs it. I like to do characters in projects that stand for something and Karolina definitely does, so that was really exciting to me,” @ginnygardner says of her new role in @hulu’s “The Runaways.” Gardner plays Karolina Dean, a queer superhero, which is a rarity for @marvel. Read more about Gardner’s character on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @dandoperalski)