The inspiration was quite clearly of Anglo-country origin, but head designer Madelaine Schäfer didn’t tout tradition in this spirited Escada Sport collection, which opened Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Tweeds and glen checks were reinterpreted, brushed, printed and given a rosy or golden blush, while argyles were reengineered and garden florals were turned into semiabstract photo prints shown on sheers. The whole mood was lighthearted and young, but cleaner and more sophisticated in execution than past seasons. The collection struck a convincing balance between novelty and salability. As Helen Bittner, senior buyer for international designer collections at KaDeWe in Berlin, put it: “It’ll look great on the sales floor.”

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