NEW YORK — As if in anticipation for fall, Estée Lauder is turning color.
Patrick Bousquet-Chavanne, the group president at The Estée Lauder Cos. who oversees the Estée Lauder and MAC Cosmetics brands, has said that color cosmetics offer the most growth potential for the Estée Lauder brand for fall, and his team is delivering on that promise with a new foundation, two new lip glosses and new colored mascaras.
“Makeup is the most important category to bring new business to the market this fall,” agreed Daniel Annese, vice president of marketing, North America, for Estée Lauder. “And with these new additions, we believe we’re well positioned to deliver on that growth.”
Ideal Matte Refinishing Makeup SPF 8, the new foundation line, launches in October. “This isn’t your mother’s matte,” noted Annese, adding that the soufflé-type formula offers a semi-matte finish rather than a heavy, old-fashioned matte finish.
Annie Carullo, senior vice president of global innovation for Estée Lauder, noted the formula employs the company’s proprietary AeroPowder technology, which combines “powder pillows,” a light powderized color that floats on top of the skin, with a blend of silicone elastomers. “The combination allows the formula to easily blend into the skin, and the silicone also helps to fill in lines and wrinkles,” she said. A gliding emollient is said to help pigments maintain consistent color throughout the day, while spherical, ultrafine powders soften and diffuse the reflection of light, Carullo said. “This is a real makeup wearer’s makeup,” she said.
The new foundation also features an expanded shade range, noted Carullo. “We’ve been rebalancing our entire foundation shade range,” she said, adding this product unveils a wider shade range for ethnic consumers. A total of 20 shades, each retailing for $32.50, will be offered. They will be available at Estée Lauder’s 2,200 domestic department and specialty store doors.
Carullo has another goal for the foundation: to expand its reach to younger consumers. “Estée Lauder has been a leader in the foundation business for many years, but for some younger consumers, there’s a sensibility that foundation is more for their mom or older sister,” she said. “We’re unmasking that myth, that foundation is only for older skin.”The inclusive positioning will be reinforced with two national print ads for the line —?one featuring new Lauder spokesmodel Liya Kebede and one featuring spokesmodel Carolyn Murphy — both of which will break in October fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. “We really want to make the statement that this foundation is for everyone,” said Annese. Sampling also will be a large part of the plan. The brand expects to distribute upward of 12 million samples of the foundation and, as part of that effort, will send out at least five million bounceback cards.
While neither Carullo nor Annese would comment on sales projections, industry sources estimated that the foundation would do at least $15 million at retail in the U.S. in its first year on counter and that the brand would spend about $3 million on advertising and promotion.
Lauder’s also adding a little additional shine to its gloss business this fall with two new introductions. Pure Color Lip Vinyl Gloss Stick, a new stick version of its popular pot glosses, will bow in September. “While we already have a great formula with our pot glosses, the preferred consumer version is stick,” said Carullo. “This gives consumers another option.” The technology behind the new gloss is a combination of liquefied jojoba ester, made into a gel with silicone polymers, noted Carullo. “It doesn’t feel occlusive, but gives you a high shine,” she said. The Gloss Sticks will be available in 12 shades, each retailing for $22.
National advertising, featuring Kebede, will break in September magazines, said Annese.
The Pure Color franchise also is getting a second lip gloss addition — Pure Color Crystal Gloss with Liquid Prisms. The high-shine formula features a blend of liquid crystals and multihued pigments that are said to refract visible light the way a prism does, allowing the color of the gloss to adjust with the light, said Annese. The gloss will be available in six shades, each retailing for $20.
While neither Annese nor Carullo would comment on projected first-year sales, industry sources estimated the two lip gloss collections together would do about $10 million at retail in their first year on counter.
The brand also is adding a pop of color to its existing MagnaScopic Mascara line with MagnaColor, a range of five new colored mascara shades. Available in blue, pink, copper, purple and ink, the shades offer a silk and jojoba moisturizing complex and will retail for $20 each, said Annese.
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