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Berlin’s stalwart independent Avant-gardist Esther Perbandt had her first full on-site MBFWB show in her 11-year career, and didn’t disappoint. Known for her androgynous deconstructed looks, the Berliner presented a strong showing of suiting-inspired looks for men and women, including long and short dressy coveralls in not-so-basic black and grey windowpane check. It wasn’t all dark and stormy — goldenrod and caramel warmed up tailored wool coats and shorts, and flowing feminine pleated dresses, sometimes shown over sheer knits. She went head-on with oversized soldier’s caps and 30-gallon hats, a new foray into headgear. Models trailed long chalk-topped poles that scribbled the black catwalk, or wrote on their own chalkboard paneled shirts. A gimmick, perhaps, but Perbandt’s signature is clear.

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