Europe Watch: Global Vision … Win Some, Lose Some … Fair is Fair
GLOBAL VISION: The minimalism — even austerity — often associated with Scandinavian design may still be an important trademark of the region’s fashion industry, but Nordic designers are increasingly taking their cue from...
GLOBAL VISION: The minimalism — even austerity — often associated with Scandinavian design may still be an important trademark of the region’s fashion industry, but Nordic designers are increasingly taking their cue from international trends. Last week’s Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, the Nordic region’s largest trade show, confirmed this, according to industry watchers. “Danish designers have become more attuned to the international trends in recent years,” said As Oeland, a consultant with the Federation of Danish Textile and Clothing, an industry group. “That reflects the growth in the industry’s exports, and its increasing commercial success abroad.”
For the summer 2005 collections, the main trend was toward “poetic but sensual dresses with light embroideries and lace,” said Lotte Freddie, a Copenhagen-based fashion critic.
A number of leading Danish designer brands, such as By Malene Birger and Bruuns Bazar, are heading in that direction, with the launch of collections that draw on Twenties and Thirties inspiration, such as early Coco Chanel.
At CIFF, increased international interest in the region’s fashion industry was reflected in the 7 percent growth in the number of attendees from outside Denmark and Sweden. More than one in four of the fair’s 22,400 visitors came from beyond the Nordic region. — Poul Funder Larsen
WIN SOME, LOSE SOME: The British Fashion Council has announced the winners of the Topshop New Generation sponsorship for the spring shows during London Fashion Week. Six designers — Giles Deacon, Adele Clarke, Ashish, Gardem, Swash and Simeon Farrar — will be provided with financial support to showcase their collections either on the runway or in the “New Gen” area in the BFC exhibition tents. The newcomers will join nine existing recipients of the sponsorship, including Bora Aksu, Camilla Staerk and Alistair Carr. However, one designer who won’t be joining them at London Fashion Week is Hamish Morrow. Last week, Morrow said he will skip the shows for the second consecutive season. “Hamish Morrow and his team are working on a radical new approach with which to relaunch the company,” said a spokeswoman in a statement. “This strategy will be completed by end 2004.” — Nina JonesFAIR IS FAIR: Berlin is fast turning into a fashion fair center, with two new apparel trade shows set to debut parallel to the Bread & Butter, Milk & Honey and Premium events here in January. The Messe Berlin announced plans last week for a women’s and men’s wear fair to be held in a southerly part of the Berlin fairgrounds, as the central halls will be occupied by the popular consumer food fair, Grüne Woche, from Jan. 21-23. It will target the more commercial fashion sector, an exhibitor segment not included in Bread & Butter, Milk & Honey and Premium’s palette of contemporary collections. Messe Berlin provided few details, but said the yet-unnamed fair will focus “on the entire European and North American market, as well as special segments in Asia, Australia and the Middle East.” Meanwhile, the Hamburg-based event and public relations agency B.Kleidung also is organizing a fair of commercial women’s and men’s wear labels to be held in the vicinity of Bread & Butter in Berlin Spandau Jan. 21-23. Organizers expect about 30 brands at the inaugural show — and the focus to be on order writing. — Melissa Drier
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews