Europe Watch: Global Vision … Win Some, Lose Some … Fair is Fair
GLOBAL VISION: The minimalism — even austerity — often associated with Scandinavian design may still be an important trademark of the region’s fashion industry, but Nordic designers are increasingly taking their cue from...
GLOBAL VISION: The minimalism — even austerity — often associated with Scandinavian design may still be an important trademark of the region’s fashion industry, but Nordic designers are increasingly taking their cue from international trends. Last week’s Copenhagen International Fashion Fair, the Nordic region’s largest trade show, confirmed this, according to industry watchers. “Danish designers have become more attuned to the international trends in recent years,” said As Oeland, a consultant with the Federation of Danish Textile and Clothing, an industry group. “That reflects the growth in the industry’s exports, and its increasing commercial success abroad.”
For the summer 2005 collections, the main trend was toward “poetic but sensual dresses with light embroideries and lace,” said Lotte Freddie, a Copenhagen-based fashion critic.
A number of leading Danish designer brands, such as By Malene Birger and Bruuns Bazar, are heading in that direction, with the launch of collections that draw on Twenties and Thirties inspiration, such as early Coco Chanel.
At CIFF, increased international interest in the region’s fashion industry was reflected in the 7 percent growth in the number of attendees from outside Denmark and Sweden. More than one in four of the fair’s 22,400 visitors came from beyond the Nordic region. — Poul Funder Larsen
WIN SOME, LOSE SOME: The British Fashion Council has announced the winners of the Topshop New Generation sponsorship for the spring shows during London Fashion Week. Six designers — Giles Deacon, Adele Clarke, Ashish, Gardem, Swash and Simeon Farrar — will be provided with financial support to showcase their collections either on the runway or in the “New Gen” area in the BFC exhibition tents. The newcomers will join nine existing recipients of the sponsorship, including Bora Aksu, Camilla Staerk and Alistair Carr. However, one designer who won’t be joining them at London Fashion Week is Hamish Morrow. Last week, Morrow said he will skip the shows for the second consecutive season. “Hamish Morrow and his team are working on a radical new approach with which to relaunch the company,” said a spokeswoman in a statement. “This strategy will be completed by end 2004.” — Nina JonesFAIR IS FAIR: Berlin is fast turning into a fashion fair center, with two new apparel trade shows set to debut parallel to the Bread & Butter, Milk & Honey and Premium events here in January. The Messe Berlin announced plans last week for a women’s and men’s wear fair to be held in a southerly part of the Berlin fairgrounds, as the central halls will be occupied by the popular consumer food fair, Grüne Woche, from Jan. 21-23. It will target the more commercial fashion sector, an exhibitor segment not included in Bread & Butter, Milk & Honey and Premium’s palette of contemporary collections. Messe Berlin provided few details, but said the yet-unnamed fair will focus “on the entire European and North American market, as well as special segments in Asia, Australia and the Middle East.” Meanwhile, the Hamburg-based event and public relations agency B.Kleidung also is organizing a fair of commercial women’s and men’s wear labels to be held in the vicinity of Bread & Butter in Berlin Spandau Jan. 21-23. Organizers expect about 30 brands at the inaugural show — and the focus to be on order writing. — Melissa Drier
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews