Europe Watch: New Look … Burberry in the Pink … Number Crunching …
NEW LOOK: Rick Owens, the designer at Revillon, calls the pared-down, industrial-style decor he used to redo the storied French furrier’s Avenue Montaigne store a clean sweep. “What I really wanted to do was empty out the old and...
NEW LOOK: Rick Owens, the designer at Revillon, calls the pared-down, industrial-style decor he used to redo the storied French furrier’s Avenue Montaigne store a clean sweep. “What I really wanted to do was empty out the old and bring in the new,” he said of the 2,000-square-foot unit, which reopened last week at one of Paris’ toniest retail addresses. With its stripped-bare cement floors, black lacquered walls and polished-steel hanging racks, it is a stark counterpoint to the plush interiors of Chanel, Dior and other neighbors. “I’m sure some people will think it’s empty and cold,” Owens said. “This is my idea of luxury.” He pointed to the only minimal decoration, an angular installation of mirrors in the back of the shop. “The mirrors speak to my concept of what the brand means,” he said. “For me, Revillon stands for a woman making love to herself in a room full of mirrors. Fur seems like such a personal luxury for a woman.” Owens joined Revillon more than a year ago and has been breathing life into the brand with his signature tattered chic. The shop — Revillon’s only stand-alone unit — had been renovated a couple of years ago by industrial designer Christophe Pillet after the house was acquired by Swiss investment fund Fibalko SA. Owens said he didn’t identify with Pillet’s dim, brooding decor and obfuscated windows. Owens said Revillon, founded in 1723, would use the store as the concept for future shop-in-shop locations. The first such unit will bow this fall in Paris’ Bon Marché department store, Owens said. — Robert Murphy
BURBERRY IN THE PINK: Burberry is giving its collection a fresh lick of pink after the success of its rose-colored trench last year. The label will launch a pink-themed collection in October to coincide with Breast Cancer Awareness Week and its support of breast cancer charities. The pink collection will include a silk trenchcoat, a leather-trimmed tote bag and a silk and cashmere scarf. The collection will go into Burberry stores in the U.S., U.K., Asia and Europe, while the trench also will be available at Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S. Prices range from $275 for the scarf to $995 for the trenchcoat. Thirty percent of retail sales will go to breast cancer charities, which in the U.S. will be The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. The campaign for the charity capsule collection, shot by Mario Testino, stars Stella Tennant. — Nina JonesNUMBER CRUNCHING: Etam, the French fast-fashion chain, last week reported a 1.5 percent slide in second-quarter sales to $307.8 million, or 252.3 million euros. On a comparable basis, sales dropped 5.1 percent. Dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange rates. For the first half, sales dropped 1.6 percent to $613.7 million, or 503 million euros, deflated by unfavorable currency exchange rates. The firm said sales fell 12 percent in the U.K. and 1.9 percent in France.
In China, however, sales advanced 19.4 percent, Etam said. Meanwhile, French activewear firm Lafuma last week said that third-quarter sales gained 0.8 percent to $155.2 million, or 127.2 million euros, boosted by strong performances in the U.S. and Asia. — Emilie Marsh
HOMECOMING QUEEN: British designer Alice Temperley will open her first London shop-in-shop at Selfridges next month. The Temperley boutique will be on the second floor of the Oxford Street flagship and similar to the one she has at Henri Bendel. The 500-square-foot space will feature hanging mannequins and a mirror that covers an entire wall. The shop-in-shop will be near Superbrands, a 16,000-square-foot room dedicated to Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Balenciaga, Chloé, Gucci, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana and Stella McCartney. — Ellen Burney
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
After showing in front of the Eiffel Tower for his last two women’s ready-to-wear collection, it looks like @anthonyvaccarello may be heading to the Big Apple. Sources say the designer will stage his next @ysl show in NYC on June 6. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion