Europe Watch: New Look … Burberry in the Pink … Number Crunching …
NEW LOOK: Rick Owens, the designer at Revillon, calls the pared-down, industrial-style decor he used to redo the storied French furrier’s Avenue Montaigne store a clean sweep. “What I really wanted to do was empty out the old and...
NEW LOOK: Rick Owens, the designer at Revillon, calls the pared-down, industrial-style decor he used to redo the storied French furrier’s Avenue Montaigne store a clean sweep. “What I really wanted to do was empty out the old and bring in the new,” he said of the 2,000-square-foot unit, which reopened last week at one of Paris’ toniest retail addresses. With its stripped-bare cement floors, black lacquered walls and polished-steel hanging racks, it is a stark counterpoint to the plush interiors of Chanel, Dior and other neighbors. “I’m sure some people will think it’s empty and cold,” Owens said. “This is my idea of luxury.” He pointed to the only minimal decoration, an angular installation of mirrors in the back of the shop. “The mirrors speak to my concept of what the brand means,” he said. “For me, Revillon stands for a woman making love to herself in a room full of mirrors. Fur seems like such a personal luxury for a woman.” Owens joined Revillon more than a year ago and has been breathing life into the brand with his signature tattered chic. The shop — Revillon’s only stand-alone unit — had been renovated a couple of years ago by industrial designer Christophe Pillet after the house was acquired by Swiss investment fund Fibalko SA. Owens said he didn’t identify with Pillet’s dim, brooding decor and obfuscated windows. Owens said Revillon, founded in 1723, would use the store as the concept for future shop-in-shop locations. The first such unit will bow this fall in Paris’ Bon Marché department store, Owens said. — Robert Murphy
BURBERRY IN THE PINK: Burberry is giving its collection a fresh lick of pink after the success of its rose-colored trench last year. The label will launch a pink-themed collection in October to coincide with Breast Cancer Awareness Week and its support of breast cancer charities. The pink collection will include a silk trenchcoat, a leather-trimmed tote bag and a silk and cashmere scarf. The collection will go into Burberry stores in the U.S., U.K., Asia and Europe, while the trench also will be available at Saks Fifth Avenue in the U.S. Prices range from $275 for the scarf to $995 for the trenchcoat. Thirty percent of retail sales will go to breast cancer charities, which in the U.S. will be The Breast Cancer Research Foundation. The campaign for the charity capsule collection, shot by Mario Testino, stars Stella Tennant. — Nina JonesNUMBER CRUNCHING: Etam, the French fast-fashion chain, last week reported a 1.5 percent slide in second-quarter sales to $307.8 million, or 252.3 million euros. On a comparable basis, sales dropped 5.1 percent. Dollar figures are converted from the euro at current exchange rates. For the first half, sales dropped 1.6 percent to $613.7 million, or 503 million euros, deflated by unfavorable currency exchange rates. The firm said sales fell 12 percent in the U.K. and 1.9 percent in France.
In China, however, sales advanced 19.4 percent, Etam said. Meanwhile, French activewear firm Lafuma last week said that third-quarter sales gained 0.8 percent to $155.2 million, or 127.2 million euros, boosted by strong performances in the U.S. and Asia. — Emilie Marsh
HOMECOMING QUEEN: British designer Alice Temperley will open her first London shop-in-shop at Selfridges next month. The Temperley boutique will be on the second floor of the Oxford Street flagship and similar to the one she has at Henri Bendel. The 500-square-foot space will feature hanging mannequins and a mirror that covers an entire wall. The shop-in-shop will be near Superbrands, a 16,000-square-foot room dedicated to Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Balenciaga, Chloé, Gucci, Marni, Dolce & Gabbana and Stella McCartney. — Ellen Burney
Breaking: @cushnieetochs’ co-founders @carlycushnie and @ochsmichelle are parting ways. After a 10-year run, Ochs is leaving the brand. Get the full story on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
@maybelline’s Kanako Takase had snow bunnies in mind when creating the beauty look for @philipppleininternational. Playing off of the bedazzled snowboards in the collection, Takase mixed two highlighters together for a luminous sheen. #wwdbeauty #nyfw (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
“There’s a huge gap between the old way of doing things and today. It takes the youth to help evolve that. You have to count on the kids today to help lead you into the future. A lot of these retailers are stuck in the past. Communication is the biggest thing,” said @ronniefieg of @kith on the youth’s role in retail. On Monday night, Jeff Staple moderated a keynote session with Fieg and @syresmith at Assembly - a series of workshops, talks and keynotes addressing topics or issues in the apparel industry. Head to WWD.com to read more advice from Fieg and what Smith thinks of his dad @willsmith’s Instagram account and sustainability (📷: @weston.wells)
@joansmalls closed the @michaelkors fall 2018 show in black sequined pants and a varsity T printed with 19 on the front and 81 on the back. 1981 – the year Kors went into business. #wwdfashion #nfyw (📷: @giovanni_giannoni_photo)
“You think your life is going to be a certain way, and nothing you thought would happen ends up happening. Never in my wildest dreams did I think I’d be designing clothes and working with Mickey Drexler, and building something I’m deeply proud of,” said Jenna Lyons. Nine months after leaving @jcrew, Lyons is exploring the meaning of happiness. Read the interview, where Lyons talks about reinvention and more on WWD.com – link in bio. #wwdfashion (📷: Farrell) #jennalyons #jcrew