PARIS – After Paris and Tokyo, Christelle Kocher is ready to bring her rule-breaking approach to catwalk shows to New York.The French designer will hit the Big Apple on Dec. 12 to showcase her pre-fall collection for her ready-to-wear brand Koché, alongside a capsule men's wear collection marking the start of a new two-season partnership with The Woolmark Co.The display, to be held at the Strand Bookstore on Broadway, will also feature the next chapter in her ongoing collaboration with Paris soccer club Paris Saint-Germain — with perhaps a celebrity footballer or two in attendance, league schedules permitting.Known for blending streetwear influences with the kind of upscale techniques usually reserved for couture, Kocher has staged guerrilla-style shows in locations including a crowded underground station and a historic covered shopping arcade in Paris, as part of her ethos of sharing fashion with the masses.With its slogan "18 Miles Of Books," the Strand is one of New York's oldest and largest independent bookstores, featured in movies including "Six Degrees of Separation," "Julie & Julia" and "Remember Me."“This is the first time we are doing a show for a pre-collection,” said Kocher, adding that she has a “special relationship” with New York, where she worked part-time during her stint at Bottega Veneta under Tomas Maier.“I still find it fascinating — its history, its architecture, its cosmopolitanism, its dynamism, its relationship to work and creation,” said Kocher. “Therefore it feels quite natural to me, this kind of bridge between two cities.”Kocher has twice made the list of semifinalists of the LVMH Prize for young fashion designers. In her parallel role as artistic director of feather maker Maison Lemarié, one of 12 specialty ateliers owned by Chanel, she is able to tap into some of France’s most traditional crafts.The designer has worked with The Wool Lab on new ways to use the material by blending sportswear looks with “exceptional craftsmanship” in line with her aesthetic, using Merino wool looks and techniques. “This season, we used wool that we embroidered or printed, in addition to slightly more technical wools that we used in our PSG capsule,” she explained.The football club has been expanding into the lifestyle segment since it fell under Qatari ownership in 2011. Koché’s spring 2018 show included soccer jerseys bedazzled with Swarovski crystals or spliced with T-shirts, triggering a sharp uplift in sales.“The Paris Saint-Germain capsule has been a real success, both editorially and commercially,” said Kocher, noting that the collaboration helped the brand add around 20 points of sale this season, bringing the total to 70 worldwide. “We are seeing good momentum and a very strong increase in revenues.”Koché first branched out overseas last year with a show during Tokyo Fashion Week held on a street in the popular Harajuku district, with models including a DJ, a photographer and a designer. The New York event will also be open to the public, and will feature a mix of local personalities and the brand’s historic models.“For us, it’s interesting to explore a new facet each season, with fresh points of view and messages every time,” said Kocher, promising “a very Koché event."The designer is also planning a show for her next resort line, though she won’t show her pre-collections on the catwalk every season. “We like to be free and to have them when it makes sense, and not out of principle,” she explained.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)