Bejeweled draped dresses, airy silk organdy numbers and wildly dramatic accessories were among the notions in play.
Christian Dior: Guess whose celebrity fashion moment has come? None other than the Devil himself. First the book, then the movie, and on Wednesday afternoon, John Galliano's haute couture collection for Christian Dior. Galliano found inspiration in "Les Visiteurs du Soir," a 1942 film fantasy based on a medieval legend in which, peeved by excessive goodness on Earth, Old Scratch sends along two traveling minstrels to a garden to mean things up a bit. Suffice to say the plan works like an evil-eye charm — at least on the runway. Which is not to say his models looked like Hell; only that, for all their ornate, indulgent accoutrements, they looked unpretty and woefully sad.
Perhaps after his real-clothes-for-the-American-masses resort show in New York, Galliano wanted to re-embrace the high theatricality and nerve-twisting escapades of which he is master. And just like back in the day, his program notes offered motley references — Joan of Arc, Hollywood, punk, Salvador Dali and, most puzzling, Botticelli, who seemed curiously MIA. But unlike in the designer's early days, when every extravaganza brought a gorgeous visual feast, this time the effort felt pointlessly heavy-handed and angry.
Still, the collection was magnificent in its opulence. Couture has always been about overstatement, now more so than ever, when most clothing sales are of the color-me-practical pre-season ilk. Galliano pulled out all of the haute stops and then some, embroidering, bejeweling, hand-painting and feathering to stunning perfection. These flourishes decorated draped dresses that were almost lovely but for their fierce armor appendages, as well as ruched, bustled piles of runaway fabric masquerading as ballgowns, some bigger than a Smart Car. But no matter, since nothing presented will see the light of reality.
Among those taking it all in were Drew Barrymore, Liv Tyler, Mischa Barton and Mia Maestro. Then there was Cher, whose presence channeled Bob Mackie oh so pointedly. While Galliano owes a huge debt to the famed and maligned costumer, he might yet pick up a pointer or two about fashion showmanship. Number one, for example: Sometimes, it's nice to make the wearer look attractive and the viewer smile.Giorgio Armani Privé: Giorgio Armani floated into Paris on a cloud this season — a cloud of silk organdy, that is. His fleet of airy evening dresses made for an ethereal start to the couture season, and — minus Armani's freakish dragonfly hats — these are just the kind of subtly crafted, unabashedly feminine dresses his clients, and potential fans, crave. Armani eased up on the constructed look, giving his dresses an ever-so-prettily undone feeling. While this breezy attitude felt fresh, his approach was classical. In periwinkle blue, a sculpted plissé bodice tumbled along into an ultrasoft ballgown. An organdy number in pale pink came whorled with bold rosettes. Others were sprinkled with crystals. And for the individualists among his fans, Armani sent out a swirly printed column under a filmy veil of lace.
As light as the eveningwear was, however, by day the collection was weighty and overwrought — unless the target market is a bombshell arriviste new to Russian riches. Armani's Forties-era fascination inspired a slim silhouette with curvy jackets and wrapping tulip skirts. But too often the construction felt cumbersome, with stiff pleated lapels, spliced fabrics and high-standing collars. As for those behemoth collars, they are to the designer's couture collections what wacky pants are to his ready-to-wear. Oh, for an Armani show without them.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)