PARIS — The latest Paul Smith fragrances are about extremes.
This story first appeared in the September 20, 2002 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
The cult British designer is set to launch this fall his second fragrance masterbrand, called Paul Smith Extreme. This duo follows the designer’s first foray into fragrance in 2000, with Paul Smith Women and Paul Smith Men.
The Mission: Smith’s latest scents, developed with license holder Inter Parfums, are meant to build up a wider following among fragrance aficionados.
“The idea for the two new [fragrances] was to keep them in the same family of scents as the first [pair], to give them more strength, to push them to the extreme,” explained Jonathan Towle, marketing manager at Paul Smith.
Both of the Smith women’s fragrances are woody florals, whereas both men’s are woody. The packaging for all four Paul Smith flacons have similar squared shapes.
The Concept: The fragrances are meant to reflect Smith’s “classic-with-a-twist” style. Their bottles, a reinterpretation of those used for the first Smith fragrances, are clear and minimalist, topped with a rounded cap. The “twist” comes in with Paul Smith’s signature multicolored stripes, which run down the Extreme bottles’ sides — vertically for the men’s scent and undulating for the women’s. Smith worked with architect Sophie Hicks on the design.
The Goal: Executives at Inter Parfums refused to comment, but industry sources estimate the duo could ring up $25 million in retail volume in its first 12 months.
Paul Smith Extreme will bow in France and Italy in October. The U.S., U.K., Japan and most other parts of the world will get the scents in spring 2003.
The Creation: Paul Smith Extreme for Men’s woody spicy juice was concocted by Marie-Aude Couture and Olivier Pescheux of Givaudan. The fragrance features top notes of hesperidia, bergamot, rosemary, nutmeg and cardamom; heart notes include incense, geranium and rose wood, while base notes include sandalwood, tonka bean and modern musk.
The Paul Smith Extreme for Women juice, a floral woody musk, was created by Antoine Maisondieu of Givaudan. It has top notes of Italian mandarin, black currant and freesia; heart notes pf heliotrope-violet, and base notes of amber, musk sandalwood and cedar.
The men’s scent comes in 100-, 50- and 30-ml. eau de toilette sprays that will retail for $51, $39 and $30, respectively. The women’s scent comes in 100-, 50- and 30-ml. eau de toilette sprays that will retail for $63, $45 and $36, respectively. All prices have been converted from the euro at current exchange rates and are for France.