Now in its third edition, the Karstadt New Generation Award is not only a fixed feature of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, it underscores the city's role as a young creative center, and the capital's potential as a springboard for developing talent. Here, a look at the four German contenders for the Karstadt award, which gives each the opportunity to present his or her spring 2009 collections to a professional audience in a runway show. It also garners the winner a contract to design an exclusive collection under the "Concept by..." label for an in-store shop presentation in the Karstadt department store chain.
The logo for Boessert/Schorn is a coat of arms featuring the initials of designers Sonia Boessert and Brigitte Schorn, and a needle and thread. Traditional handwork techniques are central to the duo's designs, which use weaving, embroidery and macramé to turn the simple sumptuous. They are perhaps best known for their creative knits that deconstruct or redefine the sweater, with pieces that hang in strings like strands of jewelry or drape the body with transparent sleeves.
Boessert says the two draw inspiration from other cultures and their fabrics. "I was on the Berlin subway with Brigitte and a group of Roman women went by. We were both totally entranced [by] what they were wearing. The fabrics were so much more beautiful than what everyone else had on. So many ruffles and patterns — they were so much more opulent."
The two women teamed up while studying at the University of Art and Design in Halle, Germany, presenting collections regularly since 2006 in Berlin and at Tokyo Fashion Week. While the brand is based in Berlin, Schorn lives in Rheydt in western Germany. They coordinate through meetings and over the Web.
Boessert/Schorn's look is about layering and multifunctionality. The wearer can self-define and reconstruct her look, choosing armholes and neck holes at will in capes and tunics. Comfort and practicality are key, with cotton and wool, jersey and viscose in muted colors the rule.
The collection retails from about 50 euros, or $75 at current exchange, for a shirt to 200 euros, or $300, for a dress.
The spring collection adds diamonds in the rough, thanks to a partnership with Swarovski to integrate crystals and jewelry into designs. On the surface, the mix seems surprising, but as Boessert quietly insists with a smile: "We love to work with contradictions."
— Susan Stone
The Eyes Have It
It's a big season for Esther Perbandt. The 33-year-old designer has a new shop in Berlin's trendy Hackescher Markt district, and her first major fashion show is coming up this month. But she's an old hand at new looks, having founded her line in 2003, three years after graduating from Berlin's University of the Arts.
Perbandt's inspiration often comes from a trick of the eye. "Sometimes I get ideas because my eyes are cheating on me. I look at something and I think, wow, that's cool, and then I look again and it's not what I thought I saw — it's something completely different, but my eyes turned it immediately into something nice."
Her latest vision is also a play on words. While visiting China, she was struck by the fact that the entire landscape was a construction site. She took the image of the cranes dotting the sky and turned it into a repeating grid pattern filled with birds and cranes, similar to Japanese origami, and in a surprising move into red from her usual black. Construction is key to her garments, too, as in convertible shirts transforming shapes and dresses of careful pleats and folds that are structured but never stiff. Apparel runs from about 60 euros, or $90, to 165 euros, or $250.
Accessories, especially handbags, are an integrated part of the line. Bags run about 90 euros, or $112, to 110 euros, or $270. Each season, Perbandt presents five shapes and adds something new — from a classic pocketbook with a snapping clasp to a long bag that hangs down the side of the body in soft leather. Summer styles will be accented with poppy pink, red and orange PVC highlights. "It's even very poppy for Esther Perbandt," she laughs. "But I always have people complaining, 'Can't we have some color, Esther?'"
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews