PARIS — In an age of one-word brands in fashion, Jean Paul Knott figures it’s time to go back to personalities.
That’s why the Louis Féraud Paris ready-to-wear collection, which Knott is slated to unveil here Wednesday, is meant to convey the late couturier’s philosophy, spirit and legacy.
"Rich," "sporty" and "fun" were among the words Knott used to describe the essence of the Féraud style. And his spring collection, dubbed "Ibiza chic," expresses it in such items as cashmere jogging suits, strapless chiffon gowns and motorcycle jackets in shaved mink.
"What I’m trying to do with this collection is figure out a way of taking what was done, what is done with the licenses and in the main ready-to-wear line and make it all stick together," Knott said in an interview. "It’s really an incredible challenge."
When Knott was named the designer of Féraud’s new luxury sportswear line last June, he plunged himself into Féraud’s world, devouring books and magazine articles about the designer, even visiting his favorite haunts and neighborhoods. Knott dug up some interesting nuggets. He learned that Féraud had licenses for kimonos and motorcycle clothes in the Seventies, which will be conveyed through several silhouettes next season.
Féraud, now majority owned by Escada Group, has had a rocky time on the road to rejuvenation. The house recently suspended couture activity in order to put the accent back on its bread-and-butter Féraud collection of suits.
Knott said his collection, now the flagship for the brand’s image, is completely different. "Here, it’s going to be about a sporty woman who doesn’t work — or who doesn’t think about work when she is wearing these clothes," he said. "Louis Féraud came from Cannes and it’s that Cannes attitude of being a bit over the top sometimes," he said. "The Féraud woman is blonde."
Knott continues to produce his two-year-old signature line. He’s scheduled to show it Friday. Differentiating between the collections, Knott said the woman who wears Jean Paul Knott is "square" — more severe and intellectual — whereas the Louis Féraud woman is "round," wanting to enjoy life and maybe even show off a little.Meanwhile, Féraud recently unveiled another corner of its new direction: a redone two-story flagship on the Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré here with marble floors and a minimalist interior. The walls are yellow with polished steel fixtures. Also, a new women’s fragrance is expected in late 2003. Féraud’s volume last year was about $28.5 million.
“What he has done at Vuitton is really exceptional,” said @gameofthrones’ actress Gwendoline Christie on @mrkimjones’ final show for @louisvuitton. “He has rebooted luxury in terms of making it commercial, viable and contemporary. And most importantly artistic. He has never compromised his artistic vision for the sake of commodity.” (📷: @zefashioninsider)
After seeing a demand for men’s wear from its customers, British contemporary women’s wear label @ariesarise has added a men’s wear component and will launch a unisex collection with @mrporterlive. The 20-piece collection includes jackets, denim, logo T-shirts and more with deconstructed ‘90s vibes. Set to launch on January 18, you can shop the pieces on Aries’ website and on mrporter.com. #wwdfashion
“And so spending so much time with a character who thinks like that, inevitability you try and analyze yourself and go back and think about your own demons and dark chapters that you had in your life,” says @thedanielbruhl of his role in TNT’s “The Alienist.” The show, set in the Gilded Age of New York, also stars Dakota Fanning and Luke Evans. Head to WWD.com to read about how 39-year-old Brühl prepared for the role and why he thinks the show is so relevant to today #wwdeye ( 📷: @Eriktanner)
Now that Celine Dion’s collection has topped $10 million in sales, the pop superstar, fashion icon and newly-minted industry player is eyeing growth in Asia. Read the full report by @tiffanyap, link in bio. #wwdnews #celinedion
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
Among the familiar faces at @off____white’s show was a surprise figure: Japanese artist @takashipom, pictured here on Wednesday morning. Other show-goers included @jerrylorenzo, who spoke about his upcoming project: a @nike collaboration for back to school, with designs inspired by his childhood on the West Coast. Sitting in the front row were Future, Don Crawley, @miguel and more. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: Stephane Feugere)
According to @laurentsai, former “Terrace House: Aloha State” cast member, she didn’t know she was auditioning for the Japanese version of “Real World.” “I was telling a couple of my friends and someone’s like, ‘That sounds a lot like Terrace House.’ I was like, ’No it can’t be.’” Turns out, it was. But Tsai isn’t just a reality star — she’s an illustrator who has worked with Starbucks Japan and most recently, she’s dipping her toes into the fashion world. Head to WWD.com to read about her time on the show, modeling and her art. #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)
More changes are coming to New York Fashion Week: Beginning with the spring 2019 collection, @alexanderwangny will move his New York show to June from September, adopting a biannual schedule with collections shown in June and December. Additionally, the @cfda is planning for an official summer/winter fashion season taking place as soon as June and December 2018. Read more about the upcoming changes on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @slovekinpics)