PARIS — In an age of one-word brands in fashion, Jean Paul Knott figures it’s time to go back to personalities.
That’s why the Louis Féraud Paris ready-to-wear collection, which Knott is slated to unveil here Wednesday, is meant to convey the late couturier’s philosophy, spirit and legacy.
"Rich," "sporty" and "fun" were among the words Knott used to describe the essence of the Féraud style. And his spring collection, dubbed "Ibiza chic," expresses it in such items as cashmere jogging suits, strapless chiffon gowns and motorcycle jackets in shaved mink.
"What I’m trying to do with this collection is figure out a way of taking what was done, what is done with the licenses and in the main ready-to-wear line and make it all stick together," Knott said in an interview. "It’s really an incredible challenge."
When Knott was named the designer of Féraud’s new luxury sportswear line last June, he plunged himself into Féraud’s world, devouring books and magazine articles about the designer, even visiting his favorite haunts and neighborhoods. Knott dug up some interesting nuggets. He learned that Féraud had licenses for kimonos and motorcycle clothes in the Seventies, which will be conveyed through several silhouettes next season.
Féraud, now majority owned by Escada Group, has had a rocky time on the road to rejuvenation. The house recently suspended couture activity in order to put the accent back on its bread-and-butter Féraud collection of suits.
Knott said his collection, now the flagship for the brand’s image, is completely different. "Here, it’s going to be about a sporty woman who doesn’t work — or who doesn’t think about work when she is wearing these clothes," he said. "Louis Féraud came from Cannes and it’s that Cannes attitude of being a bit over the top sometimes," he said. "The Féraud woman is blonde."
Knott continues to produce his two-year-old signature line. He’s scheduled to show it Friday. Differentiating between the collections, Knott said the woman who wears Jean Paul Knott is "square" — more severe and intellectual — whereas the Louis Féraud woman is "round," wanting to enjoy life and maybe even show off a little.Meanwhile, Féraud recently unveiled another corner of its new direction: a redone two-story flagship on the Rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré here with marble floors and a minimalist interior. The walls are yellow with polished steel fixtures. Also, a new women’s fragrance is expected in late 2003. Féraud’s volume last year was about $28.5 million.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty