Facets of Femininity – Salvatore Ferragamo, Etro, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti, Antonio Berardi
Salvatore Ferragamo: Black is back, and we’re not talking trends. In his return to Salvatore Ferragamo after a six-month hiatus, director of women’s ready-to-wear Graeme Black conjured up a mood that was wholly ladylike...
Salvatore Ferragamo: Black is back, and we’re not talking trends. In his return to Salvatore Ferragamo after a six-month hiatus, director of women’s ready-to-wear Graeme Black conjured up a mood that was wholly ladylike with more than a nod to retro, and quiet from the first exit to the very last. Black is crazy for skirts that ride tight through the hips then flare or flounce at the hem, a silhouette he relied on throughout the show, though it may be a tough sell at retail. In the same ultrafeminine vein, peplum jackets came in everything from pinstriped wool to suede and coats in astrakhan were tailored and trim. Lightweight knits, including lacy sweaters and those gussied up with curling ruffles, were some of the loveliest pieces. Meanwhile, Black’s sportif evening look — sweaters with haute glam full skirts — was gentle as can be.
Etro: Bright circular patterns were projected against the backdrop, underscoring the lofty message in the press notes: Dadaism “is an elegant, open-minded jump from one harmonious world to another along different aesthetic spheres.” So Veronica Etro delivered her Dada manifesto at Etro with a head-to-toe orgy of contrasting prints, colors and textures, not to mention shapes.
The range ran from Seventies circles in watered-down colors to tapestry florals, and from the house’s signature paisley prints to the current fascination with all things British via a patchwork of flannels, stripes and chevrons. Tossed in between were animal stripes, scarf prints, fur flourishes and twinkling metallics.
As for shapes, Etro played up coats, often cut close to the body, sometimes belted, sometimes short and swingy. For the most part, these were worn over minis, colorblocked pleated skirts, boho dresses and printed silk shirts. On the runway, Etro likes to drive home her point with a the-more-the-merrier attitude. But girls with a discerning eye can pick out the many great separates in this collection and put them together in their own way.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua: Party animals don’t usually fret over sensible daywear. They just look to Alessandro Dell’Acqua to supply them with the sexy looks they crave for their nocturnal outings — itty-bitty shapes, peekaboo silks and lots of frills. For fall, the Neapolitan designer said he worked three key elements into his collection: erotic, rock and Sixties, all styled à la Kate Moss. In other words, sensually disheveled.
“I see things on the hanger and I’m, like, ‘I never knew that color worked on me.’ It’s things you necessarily wouldn’t choose to wear, but once you put them on, you see why Janie is who Janie is." — Lily Collins on working with former "Mad Men" costume designer, Janie Bryant on creating looks for her role as Celia Brady's in Amazon series, "The Last Tycoon." 📸@jilliansollazzo #wwdeye
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