Facets of Femininity – Salvatore Ferragamo, Etro, Alessandro Dell’Acqua, Moschino Cheap & Chic, Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti, Antonio Berardi
Salvatore Ferragamo: Black is back, and we’re not talking trends. In his return to Salvatore Ferragamo after a six-month hiatus, director of women’s ready-to-wear Graeme Black conjured up a mood that was wholly ladylike...
Salvatore Ferragamo: Black is back, and we’re not talking trends. In his return to Salvatore Ferragamo after a six-month hiatus, director of women’s ready-to-wear Graeme Black conjured up a mood that was wholly ladylike with more than a nod to retro, and quiet from the first exit to the very last. Black is crazy for skirts that ride tight through the hips then flare or flounce at the hem, a silhouette he relied on throughout the show, though it may be a tough sell at retail. In the same ultrafeminine vein, peplum jackets came in everything from pinstriped wool to suede and coats in astrakhan were tailored and trim. Lightweight knits, including lacy sweaters and those gussied up with curling ruffles, were some of the loveliest pieces. Meanwhile, Black’s sportif evening look — sweaters with haute glam full skirts — was gentle as can be.
Etro: Bright circular patterns were projected against the backdrop, underscoring the lofty message in the press notes: Dadaism “is an elegant, open-minded jump from one harmonious world to another along different aesthetic spheres.” So Veronica Etro delivered her Dada manifesto at Etro with a head-to-toe orgy of contrasting prints, colors and textures, not to mention shapes.
The range ran from Seventies circles in watered-down colors to tapestry florals, and from the house’s signature paisley prints to the current fascination with all things British via a patchwork of flannels, stripes and chevrons. Tossed in between were animal stripes, scarf prints, fur flourishes and twinkling metallics.
As for shapes, Etro played up coats, often cut close to the body, sometimes belted, sometimes short and swingy. For the most part, these were worn over minis, colorblocked pleated skirts, boho dresses and printed silk shirts. On the runway, Etro likes to drive home her point with a the-more-the-merrier attitude. But girls with a discerning eye can pick out the many great separates in this collection and put them together in their own way.
Alessandro Dell’Acqua: Party animals don’t usually fret over sensible daywear. They just look to Alessandro Dell’Acqua to supply them with the sexy looks they crave for their nocturnal outings — itty-bitty shapes, peekaboo silks and lots of frills. For fall, the Neapolitan designer said he worked three key elements into his collection: erotic, rock and Sixties, all styled à la Kate Moss. In other words, sensually disheveled.To wit, Dell’Acqua put his rumple-haired, kohl-eyed bimbettes in purple baby dolls with lace insets or longer versions splashed with huge flowers. Black bras were veiled with lace tops, furs were tossed over lacy negligees and gold and silver sequined minis were paired with black or wallpaper-patterned jackets. Plenty of sizzle, Dell’Acqua style.
Moschino Cheap & Chic: Everyone knows that, when it comes to Moschino Cheap & Chic, creative director Rosella Jardini gets to indulge her campier side. Remember those sweet Hawaiian tourist-clad grannies from last season? This time around, Jardini is climbing mountains. Despite the inexplicable soundtrack of Gene Kelly crooning tunes from “An American in Paris,” the collection was a dizzying romp through the Austrian Alps.
Jardini’s girls sported Tyrolean jackets overloaded with tons of ribbon patches and rosettes, worn over poppy-print dresses and full skirts with swags of taffeta threaded through their scallop-edged hems, all topped off with an alpine hat or huge headband spelling out “ciao” or “love.” The total effect was as if Maria Von Trapp made these clothes not only out of curtains, but out of everything she could get her hands on. When Jardini went simpler, as in a striped sweater with an ombréd flapper shimmy skirt or an oatmeal knit paired with a pouf-tiered plaid skirt, the result was more chic than cheap.
Philosophy by Alberta Ferretti: Saturday’s Philosophy collection was staged in the not-so-wild West, where Alberta Ferretti’s casual cowgirl kicked up a little dust. The Western motif meant overt styling, in the form of sheriff’s stars, cowboy boots and five-gallon hats. But buried under those cornball trappings was a tiny herd of cute clothes. A shrunken plaid wool jacket was worn over a flirty dress in a vintage floral print. A denim shirt was glammed up with silver grommets, while scrolling suede appliqués on suede skirts and even at the waist of a pretty chiffon dress gave a nod to classic Western boots. Fringed fare was a little too costume-y, but, on the whole, Ferretti made a convincing case for frontier fashion.
Antonio Berardi: Pumped-up soufflé collars and voluminous looks may be charging down most Milan runways, but all that flou is nothing new chez Berardi, where a collection isn’t complete without a floor-sweeping gown so full a girl could hide her friends under it. But those sorts of looks are just eye and editorial candy, because what Berardi excels at is supersharp tailoring mixed with whimsical feminine details. For example, a crisp suit cut from baby blue-and-ecru ecclesiastical lace was sprinkled with tonal Swarovski crystals, while a high-waisted pencil skirt was topped by a swingy paneled coat trimmed with chandelier-sized sparklers.Berardi loves to work a romantic theme as well, this time opting for a saucy gypsy type, whose caravan wagon was perched at the top of the runway. Soft silk ruffles flowed down sleeves or were used liberally as trim on full skirts and dresses. The prettiest, a fluttering silk dress printed in pale blue oversized paisley,was perfect for any fashion-loving Esmeralda.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over the top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty