A beaming yellow sun, a giant planet earth, inflatable mirrored spheres, a sunflower or two and a blizzard. Here, a few of the more memorable sets of the season.
• CHANEL A giant world globe was the centerpiece with flags pinned in spots where Chanel has a presence—all to the recurring sound of Daft Punk’s “Around the World.” The set was created by Chanel’s in-house team, which was led by Karl Lagerfeld’s vision. “The spirit of the show was Chanel’s globalization,” Lagerfeld explains. “Chanel opened its first boutique exactly 100 years ago in Deauville, and now there are 300 Chanel stores in the world, so it is a tribute to the world and to the global Chanel.”
• PRADA Created by AMO, the research arm of Rem Koolhaas’ Rotterdam-based OMA, Prada’s “Reclaimed Space” set featured projections of images around the space’s perimeter, from idyllic visuals to abstract panoramas and shadows of a contemplative woman, with seating in the center. “The audience faced an ‘Ideal House’: a continuous interior populated with geometric furniture, objects and manifestation of everyday life,” notes OMA associate and Prada project leader Ippolito Pestellini Laparelli. “Models weaved through the set, acting as characters in a sequence of sophisticated domestic scenes.” The effect was full of theater and emotion—“The show was ultimately more similar to a play than a traditional catwalk,” she notes.
• MARC JACOBS A huge hot sun inspired by Olafur Eliasson’s “The Weather Project” at the Tate intensely shone on the models who walked a circular runway. “Marc was feeling a certain melancholy and wanted the show to have a somber quality,” New York-based set designer Stefan Beckman says. The warm light washed out the looks with an amber, almost gray tone, and the models did an encore with normal lights, exposing the intricate embellishments. “Almost like The Wizard of Oz,” notes Beckman. “He loved that idea of everything being in black-and-white, and all of a sudden your perception was in color.”
• LOUIS VUITTON Marc Jacobs thought up the concept of a corridor of an imaginary hotel. The space was lined in doors that models emerged from with the audience sitting in the center peeking into the rooms like voyeurs. “There is a mystery about what goes on behind the doors,” Jacobs says. “I spend a lot of time in hotels and it’s intriguing to think about your life and what other people think about you—as well as other people’s lives and what people think of them in turn. The hotel corridor provides a really good backdrop for many different characters.”
• MONCLER GAMME ROUGE An iceberg, a fake blizzard and mountain climbers landing on the snowdrift runway via a zip line made up this set by Paris’ La Mode en Image. According to the company, the aim of the set “was to go deep into the brand’s soul, where the cold is absolute and extreme: The encounter with nature, the challenge of sport and putting resistance to the test.”
• CHRISTIAN DIOR Raf Simons and the Dior team homed in on ideas of Surrealism and Pop with countless enormous mirrored spheres reflecting the floor painted sky blue with fluffy white clouds—a clear nod to the work of Belgian surrealist artist René Magritte—best known, perhaps, for his Ceçi n’est pas une pipe (“This is not a pipe”) series. “I wanted a set that would marry dream and reality,” Simons said. “The surreal Magritte-like cloud path expresses the feeling one could have floating above the sky, while the reflection in the silver mirrored surfaces confront you to reality and to yourself. It also refers to the dual vision of Christian Dior, marrying a defined architectural silhouette with a more airy, almost ethereal aesthetic.”
• VIKTOR & ROLF A backdrop visual of wilting sunflowers in black and white and a damaged wooden floor was conceived by Antwerp’s Job Smeets and Nynke Tynagel of Studio Job. According to the designers, “The show was about raw glamour and the girl was a sophisticated rebel. Ripped-jean effects were translated to embroidered tuxedo looks. We wanted to visually complement the collection with the set print.”
In honor the @CFDA’s announcement of @iamnaomicampbell receiving the Fashion Icon Award at the 2018 #CFDAAwards, which will take place on June 4, here’s a #tbt of the supermodel on @michaelkors’ runway in 1991. #wwdfashion #wwdarchive (📷: George Chinsee)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech during @sxsw for @createcultivate in partnership with @fossil. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.