PARIS — Frills and furbelows, sparkles and spangles — and miles and miles of skin — underscored couturiers’ efforts here this week, from Elie Saab’s sexed-up seductresses to the extroverted vamps Stephane Roland delivered...
PARIS — Frills and furbelows, sparkles and spangles — and miles and miles of skin — underscored couturiers’ efforts here this week, from Elie Saab’s sexed-up seductresses to the extroverted vamps Stephane Roland delivered at the house of Scherrer.
Other designers, though, such as Hanae Mori, who continued to create with her refined customer in mind, and Franck Sorbier, with his fairy-tale-like dresses fit for Snow White, delivered quieter and more romantic shows.
Scherrer’s Roland has aimed to grow his client base for several seasons now — he even added a men’s made-to-order collection, which he showed in tandem with the women’s couture for the second season running.
Apparently, his efforts are paying off. House president Charles-Edouard Barthes boasted that the couture turned profitable — a rarity in this money-losing business — for the first time last year. He cited growing client lists in Russia, the Middle East and the United States. So what’s Roland doing right?
Judging from his revealing dresses with deep slits and necklines that plunged to the navel, it may be the designer’s refusal to rein in his exuberance. His over-the-top effort featured slinky chiffon numbers with glitzy embroidery and sporty smoking trousers smocked at the cuff. Much of the show worked a cabaret theme à la Josephine Baker. His bride even came arrayed in sparkling lingerie, barely concealed under a white cape.
Speaking of cabarets, Dominique Sirop showed at the Lido. The party atmosphere was fitting, since this was a special season for Sirop, his first as the Chambre Syndicale’s newest full-fledged member. The designer, who trained with Hubert de Givenchy, again highlighted his talent for sculptural silhouettes with a collection of overtly sexy, body-hugging gowns.
Beirut-based Elie Saab, whose fame grew after Halle Berry wore one of his dresses to the Oscars last year, doesn’t pull his punches, either. His ornate chiffon dresses seemed made expressly for the red carpet. With their embroidered sequins and high slits, they were just the eye candy to catch a photographer’s hungry gaze.
But saucing it up doesn’t suit everyone. HanaeMori, for instance, turned in another example of her understated style. Her day suits were well proportioned and staid, while her crepe dresses came in bursts of turquoise or aqua. But Mori’s strong suit remains her Japanese silk fabrics. For spring, she served up a traditional wave motif on a series of fetching chiffon evening dresses. The collection also proved that Mori is still going strong. She is even preparing to rev up her quiet ready-to-wear business with the help of her new Japanese partner, Misui Busan.Franck Sorbier, showing at the gilded Opera Comique, featured live music and a stage strewn with white confetti. It was a perfect setting for his intricate collection of white evening gowns fit for a Fairy Queen.
Meanwhile, not everyone who shows during the couture practices the haute art, per se. E2, the husband-and-wife team of Olivier and Michelle Chatenet, for example, rework vintage couture pieces and give them a hip, modern twist. This season, they moved toward the new elegance, sweeping fashion by decorating a bevy of chic Chanel-influenced pieces with eyelets and chiffon flower appliqués.
For her part, Anne-Valerie Hash’s silhouette — oversized on top and slim on the bottom — revealed a more feminine feeling than in recent seasons. Yet Hash stuck to her favorite deconstructed look, reinterpreting men’s clothing for a woman’s body.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)