All sorts of themes were in play as the Milan collections continued, from a mix of grunge with classic suits to charmingly campy looks to poetic, sepia-colored pieces.
Max Mara: Merging two disparate moods, workaday and rebellious, Max Mara's fall collection could be called Grunge Lite, an office-safe look that gave sway to the trappings of modest rockerdom but without any suggestion of aggressiveness or sloppiness. All manner of oversized anoraks formed the base of the collection with coats done up in sober tartans and monastic black or cut as capes. Bright shiny tops sequined in sporty stripes were paired with slouchy skirts cut in men's suitings, and these versatile pieces, as well as jackets, oversized knits and full-cut pants, were combined and recombined throughout. Formal pairings made plays on the classic suit. More adventurous mixing meant a tailored tuxedo jacket worn over a minidress. The overall affect was refreshingly realistic, and made a quietly confident statement that looked just right.
Moschino Cheap & Chic: Who better to open the Cheap & Chic show than Dita Von Teese? Yes, she's a little cheap and a little chic herself, that one, and she flaunts those attributes, as well as everything else, with admirable shimmy-shaking camp. Honoring such an haute flirt, the fall collection was full of cheeky, good-time clothes. There were cardigans decked out with covered buttons, puff-sleeve blouses and circle skirts galore, as well as a heart-print dress for the swing-dancing set. The season's range of novelty prints included one that looked like a collage of old-time lingerie ads clipped from a newspaper. It was just as subtle as a dress printed with the word "naughty" across its front. At a Cheap & Chic show, there is no such thing as taking things too far. And that's part of the fun.
Anna Molinari: Rosella Tarabini staged her fall Anna Molinari show in the Sala delle Cariatidi of Milan's dignified Palazzo Reale. The graceful environment was sullied by Tarabini's awkward collection of black satin strapless minidresses bunched up in the back, shredded chiffon gowns and metallic leather HotPant overalls. The disjointed collection vacillated from faux femininity, in the form of snug angora minidresses, to distressed rocker, courtesy of slim, metallic pinstriped pants and skinny transparent Ts. A moment of clarity emerged in sassy tiered tulle dresses and slinky fox stoles. Tarabini has used Molinari as her experimental canvas, putting down artsy strokes one season, only to start with a new genre the next. It's time for the designer to hunker down and find a little discipline.Antonio Marras: There's always something slightly melancholic about Antonio Marras' collections, as though he has funneled the sepia tones of a Depression-era film onto his languid, poetic pieces. For fall, the Sardinian designer based his stoic and sober collection on Anton Chekov's play "The Three Sisters." A single mirror hanging from the back reflected the fluidity of Marras' sweeping opera coats with chiffon insets, sturdy gray wool circle skirts and intricately beaded sweaters. He kept the palette dark and steely, adding flourishes with puckered full sleeves and cinched waists. For the finale, the curtain rose, revealing a stage covered in gilt mirrors. At that moment, the sorrow lifted, and a beautiful reflection of strong women came in.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews