All sorts of themes were in play as the Milan collections continued, from a mix of grunge with classic suits to charmingly campy looks to poetic, sepia-colored pieces.
Max Mara: Merging two disparate moods, workaday and rebellious, Max Mara's fall collection could be called Grunge Lite, an office-safe look that gave sway to the trappings of modest rockerdom but without any suggestion of aggressiveness or sloppiness. All manner of oversized anoraks formed the base of the collection with coats done up in sober tartans and monastic black or cut as capes. Bright shiny tops sequined in sporty stripes were paired with slouchy skirts cut in men's suitings, and these versatile pieces, as well as jackets, oversized knits and full-cut pants, were combined and recombined throughout. Formal pairings made plays on the classic suit. More adventurous mixing meant a tailored tuxedo jacket worn over a minidress. The overall affect was refreshingly realistic, and made a quietly confident statement that looked just right.
Moschino Cheap & Chic: Who better to open the Cheap & Chic show than Dita Von Teese? Yes, she's a little cheap and a little chic herself, that one, and she flaunts those attributes, as well as everything else, with admirable shimmy-shaking camp. Honoring such an haute flirt, the fall collection was full of cheeky, good-time clothes. There were cardigans decked out with covered buttons, puff-sleeve blouses and circle skirts galore, as well as a heart-print dress for the swing-dancing set. The season's range of novelty prints included one that looked like a collage of old-time lingerie ads clipped from a newspaper. It was just as subtle as a dress printed with the word "naughty" across its front. At a Cheap & Chic show, there is no such thing as taking things too far. And that's part of the fun.
Anna Molinari: Rosella Tarabini staged her fall Anna Molinari show in the Sala delle Cariatidi of Milan's dignified Palazzo Reale. The graceful environment was sullied by Tarabini's awkward collection of black satin strapless minidresses bunched up in the back, shredded chiffon gowns and metallic leather HotPant overalls. The disjointed collection vacillated from faux femininity, in the form of snug angora minidresses, to distressed rocker, courtesy of slim, metallic pinstriped pants and skinny transparent Ts. A moment of clarity emerged in sassy tiered tulle dresses and slinky fox stoles. Tarabini has used Molinari as her experimental canvas, putting down artsy strokes one season, only to start with a new genre the next. It's time for the designer to hunker down and find a little discipline.Antonio Marras: There's always something slightly melancholic about Antonio Marras' collections, as though he has funneled the sepia tones of a Depression-era film onto his languid, poetic pieces. For fall, the Sardinian designer based his stoic and sober collection on Anton Chekov's play "The Three Sisters." A single mirror hanging from the back reflected the fluidity of Marras' sweeping opera coats with chiffon insets, sturdy gray wool circle skirts and intricately beaded sweaters. He kept the palette dark and steely, adding flourishes with puckered full sleeves and cinched waists. For the finale, the curtain rose, revealing a stage covered in gilt mirrors. At that moment, the sorrow lifted, and a beautiful reflection of strong women came in.
A grooming moment between @tanfrance and @antoni last night at the The LGBT Community Center Trailblazer Awards honoring Anna Wintour, Ricky Martin and more. See more photos at WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
“It was a very surreal feeling. It wasn’t like we were in the studio together coming up with it — it’s more like he discovered it and loved it. I didn’t let myself get my hopes up, but then it happened it was very exciting,” said singer-songwriter @nombe on discovering that @pharrell would be using his song, “Cant Catch Me” on his HBO documentary series “Outpost.” The German-born singer — named Noah MacBeth — talked to WWD about feminism, using art as a platform for political expression and personal style. Read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
This season, denim is going west – in influence. Brands like @fathersdaughterla (pictured here), @tommyhilfiger Jeans, @levis and more are opting for raw, top-stitching styles. (Styled by @thealexbadia; 📷: @ryanplett)
20-year-old British singer @jorjasmith_ made her debut at Coachella last weekend. We caught up with her and talked about her love for Amy Winehouse, working with Kendrick Lamar on the “Black Panther” album and her fashion philosophy. Read the interview on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @katiedaisyla)
Supermodel @helenachristensen teamed up with longtime friend and designer @camillastaerk on a joint @paredeyewear collaboration. The lineup features three styles and 11 offerings, all of which embody a vintage feel. Get all the details on how they celebrated the collab on WWD.com. #wwdaccessories #wwdeye (📷: @slovekinpics)
“It’s a hard industry to keep motivated, as well, so finding different subjects and people is what makes it worth it – when you’re like, oh, I’ve met great people, I feel like I’ve done something good, and I feel proud of having done this,” said French actress Stacy Martin on being grateful for the variety of roles she’s take on. Read @ktauer’s full interview with Martin on her her latest film “Godard Mon Amour.” #wwdeye (📷: @danieldorsa)