LONDON — The world’s fashion capitals have reached a peace agreement regarding the show calendar from 2009 onward.
Organizers of the four major fashion weeks, who held a summit Tuesday at the Mayfair Hotel here, have resolved the various scheduling issues that would have reduced London Fashion Week to just three days.
While finer details of the deal have yet to be hammered out, starting in September 2009. New York will be able to move its show week back, and LFW will have a five-day week, just one day shorter than its current timeframe.
“We are all united by one aim and one global industry. We recognize and respect each other’s cities’ strengths and will continue to collaborate to protect and grow our industry,” stated Harold Tillman, chairman of the British Fashion Council. “I am delighted that this meeting has brought our fashion capitals closer together. It has highlighted our interdependence, commitment to nurturing talent and our sharing of ideas and goals.”
London’s slot in the fashion cycle risked being severely curtailed by New York’s plans to start its 2009 shows later than usual to allow designers more time to work on their collections. The new timing was also meant to avoid shows clashing with Labor Day week.
“We have no choice. This is not an arbitrary decision,” Steven Kolb, the executive director of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, told WWD earlier this month. “The Italian mills are closed in August and Labor Day is a major holiday in this city. It’s impossible to do business on Labor Day.”
With those constraints in mind, Tuesday’s meeting was meant to secure London’s spot on the global fashion calendar.
“We all agree it is very important to preserve London Fashion Week, it provides the pool of talent we all benefit from,” stated Diane Von Furstenberg, president of the CFDA.
For February, the CFDA, Milan’s Camera Della Moda and Paris’s Federation Francais de la Couture agreed to work closely with the BFC and take London’s needs into account.
While London Fashion Week is arguably less commercially driven than its American and European counterparts, it’s long been known to punch above its weight in the emerging talent stakes. Designers including Giles Deacon, Christopher Kane and Gareth Pugh have garnered vital exposure during the shows here, alongside marquee names like Paul Smith and Nicole Farhi.
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)
@Pharrell and his wife Helen Lasichanh were among the stars that came out to celebrate @rimowa’s first pop-up concept shop. The space, which is located on Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, draws inspiration from airport luggage carousels and lounge areas – and features the company’s luggage and accessories. If the pop-up is successful it could pave the way for addition temporary shops throughout the world. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA)
@carineroitfeld celebrated @crfashionbook’s first calendar last night with a dinner party at Spring Place in Manhattan. Photographed by @stevenkleinstudio, the calendar takes on a fitness theme and features @joansmalls, @gigihadid, @danielle_herrington_ – pictured here – and more. “[Carine Roitfeld] wanted me to feel sexy and she wanted me to be myself and feel it out on my own and do what I felt was right,” said Herrington, aka Miss October. #wwdeye
@saintrecords and @virgilabloh last night at @americanexpress’ “A Night With Success Makers” event. “I always bring it back to community because without that I wouldn’t have the courage,” said Knowles when asked how she has gotten where she is now. Read more highlights from their conversation on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lizdoupnik)
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In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)