Welcome to the new, vastly improved world of resort. Not to jinx anything, but so far the CFDA’s attempt to condense the American collections, at least, is going well. Except for the fact that various constituencies can’t agree on what to call it, opting for either resort 2010 or 2011, the former clearly the more accurate handle since the clothes start to ship in October. That all should get on the same page is not a minor point, given the necessity of proper tagging for archival purposes.
Most American and some European designers are showing in New York within or around the June 7 through June 18 time frame suggested by the CFDA. And if last Friday’s full slate elicited the occasional requiem for the loss of summer hours by a few lucky types who typically partake of the perk, it also brought on a mini burst of show-going adrenaline that past resort seasons — you know, the ones that started in May and plodded toward August — sorely lacked. By next year, it’s reasonable to assume that New York resort will play like a complete, tightly scheduled collection season.
All involved should work to make this happen, in Europe as well as New York. Resort boasts the oft-cited distinction of being the most important season of the year, with the longest time on the selling floor — including the merch at full price for the holidays. Yet the season’s rapid ascent has far outpaced the way it’s been handled, at least from a press standpoint. Only over the past couple of years have magazines even started shooting it seriously, itself an accomplishment, given the difficulty of getting a creative thematic handle on — not to mention workable shoot dates for — a quite diverse season dribbled across eight weeks. At this publication, securing space for daily front page space (oh, those pesky Beauty Fridays and don’t even mention men’s wear) has sometimes felt about as appreciated as suggesting a spread for snapshots of a staff karaoke night.
Now, finally, everyone seems to be on board. It’s not surprising, then, to find many designers rethinking their manner of showing. Some have opted for formal runways and others, informal presentations, but with the kind of carefully edited run-of-show that transforms a once mundane retail delivery into a true collection.
None of which is to say that resort should turn into a third megaseason. No one wants that — at least not beyond those exciting, globe-trotting Chanel and Dior extravaganzas. From a practical standpoint, many smaller houses simply can’t afford a third major production. Keeping resort efforts to a smaller scale prevents such houses from feeling squeezed out.
Furthermore, what’s wonderful about the season’s developing approach is its intimacy. Though not as charming as back in Isaac Mizrahi’s “Spa” days, when his mom and then-business partner Sarah Haddad-Cheney served homemade Syrian rosewater pastries and iced tea, these shows feel friendly, presented to a tight industry audience sans bells, whistles, door frenzy and excessive editorial trickery, yetwith enoughpolish to carry the fashion moment. On Friday alone, the approach worked as well for Donna Karan as for Jason Wu, both of whom offered beautiful collections. Undistracted by the celebrity across the runway, the designers’ audiences kept eyes squarely where they should be, on the clothes, whether Donna’s elegant chain mail or Jason’s gamine chic.
Let’s hope that this time next year, more designers will show in a similar vein. But it all hinges on maintaining a certain temperance. So, should the cute cast of “Glee” meander in, tell them they’re early. Their booking is for September.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty