Fashion Scoops: A Page from Yohji … Imitation of Dior … Stress Breakers
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a...
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a commitment yet, but Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said Monday he’s not against it. "I hope so," he said. "We have four strong times in Paris and everyone should use those four times as he pleases." Word has it, however, that French luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which has three couture houses: Givenchy, Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior, is strongly opposed to the idea.
On Sunday, Yamamoto was at the launch party for his new book, "Talking to Myself." "My design is hard to understand, at least I think so," he declared. "So I asked a friend of mine, a professor of philosophy at the University of Osaka [Kiyokazu Washida] to explain it by writing a text for me, asking the questions: ‘What is fashion? Who is Yamamoto?’"
"And, Who is Yamamoto? He’s a man who may retire next year," added the designer with a sly smile. But during the fete at Azzedine Alaïa’s massive studio in the Marais, Yamamoto was in fine form, chatting with and receiving congratulations from a bevy of his cohorts, including Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Kenzo Takada, Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren and Martine Sitbon. For her part, Karan enthused as she pored over the pages of Yamamoto’s book, which includes a selection of memorable images from his 20-year career. "I remember all of these," she said, rifling through the book with the fervor of a devotee. Then she came across the text in Japanese script and said, "I only wish I could read it." Not to worry, Donna. An English version is available.
Meanwhile, you might call Viktor & Rolf Hedi’s newest slim men. The Dutch design duo, in Paris to work on their fragrance with partner L’Oréal, turned up at Alaïa’s party for Yamamoto Sunday night wearing Dior Homme suits by Hedi Slimane, with identical shirts and ties. "They’re samples," Rolf Snoeren said, clutching the lapels of his slim black jacket. "Hedi sent them to us." But man cannot live by Dior Homme alone. Snoeren confirmed that he and Viktor Horsting are working on a men’s collection, which will be unveiled in January for fall 2003 retailing.
IMITATION OF DIOR: There was a fashion emergency of sorts outside the Christian Dior couture show Monday: an impromptu Imitation of Christ fashion show and demonstration. "I wanted to do something totally spontaneous and ad hoc," said IOC’s Tara Subkoff. "I wanted to do pure spectacle — nothing serious —just to inject some humor into the fashion thing." And how. Arriving in ambulances, a score of energetic models piled out singing and, in the process, slowed the steady stream of cars chauffeuring Dior invitees. Incredulous security guards watched agape. But they weren’t the only people who were taken aback. Initially, talk was that IOC would stage a happening on Tuesday. "We decided to do it on Monday about two days ago," said Subkoff. So why didn’t they spread the word? "It’s one of my private art projects: seeing how long a secret can be kept." As for the clothes, Subkoff called it "Garbage Couture," or reworked vintage pieces. In a nod to the Dior show, models wore vintage Dior haute couture jewelry, hats and other accessories. "It just seemed to make sense," she said.
STRESS BREAKERS: Talk about branching out. While Gucci’s launching a massage line, Prada’s researching clothing prototypes for space travel. A Prada spokeswoman said that Miuccia Prada had been contacted by Milan University’s aerospace department to study new textures and volumes for trips into space.
Gucci’s massage line, due to bow at the end of the month, includes a foldable teak table with a padded mattress covered in dark brown GG vinyl and detachable headrest. Other items designed by creative director Tom Ford are massage oil containers in brushed steel and black cotton GG towels in three sizes. But patrons are likely to need a stress-reducing massage after writing the check for the table — a hefty $5,350.
@margotrobbie steps out onto the red carpet wearing @miumiu. The actress is nominated for “Outstanding Performance by a Female Actor in a Leading Role” in “I, Tonya” at the #SagAwards. (📷: Stewart Cook) #wwdfashion
For @massimogiorgetti of @msgm, the Nineties are his favorite decade. “They had a huge impact on my personal growth. What I like of the Nineties is that they are not so precise in terms of style as other decades…there was actually a bit of everything,” he said. As seen on MSGM’s Spring 2018 show: tie-dye and a bit of grunge, two styles that are synonymous with the decade #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @kukukuba)
Breaking News: @hedislimane joins @celine as its new artistic, creative and image director. One of fashion’s preeminent image-makers and trendsetters, Slimane is to join the LVMH brand on Feb. 1 and unveil his first fashion proposition for men and women next September during Paris Fashion Week. It marks a major homecoming for Slimane, who cemented his reputation – and influenced men’s tailoring for more than a decade – as the designer of Dior Homme between 2000 and 2007. He went on to reinvent and ignite the house of Yves Saint Laurent, which he rechristened Saint Laurent, between 2012 and 2016 – all the while maintaining a close relationship with the Arnault family, which controls LVMH and Dior. Read the full exclusive story on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
“Personally I believe the Eighties have been the richest and more vivacious period for international fashion,” Giorgio Armani said when asked what his favorite decade of fashion is. It was a moment of disruption and experimentation and only thinking back to the first years of that decade is always an emotion for me, for what they have meant to me and my work.” The influence is clear in @giorgioarmani spring 2018 collection, pictured here, which was full of bright colors and unexpected prints. Read more about which decades designers loved most on WWD.com #wwdfashion #wwddecades (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
For Lady Gaga’s only Italian show on her “Joanne World Tour,” the singer wore a range of @versace_official outfits. The standout piece: this custom-made bodysuit inspired by the brand’s spring 2018 collection. #wwdfashion (RG: @ladygaga)
@_camillaruth_ is expanding on the wellness-craze concept with @westbourne – a new NYC restaurant that’s both a healthy-minded café as well as a business that gives back to the community. Marcus works with the Robin Hood foundation to give back to The Door, a non-profit providing youth development services, and also hires employees through The Door. Read our full interview with Marcus on giving back through food on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)