Fashion Scoops: A Page from Yohji … Imitation of Dior … Stress Breakers
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a...
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a commitment yet, but Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said Monday he’s not against it. "I hope so," he said. "We have four strong times in Paris and everyone should use those four times as he pleases." Word has it, however, that French luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which has three couture houses: Givenchy, Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior, is strongly opposed to the idea.
On Sunday, Yamamoto was at the launch party for his new book, "Talking to Myself." "My design is hard to understand, at least I think so," he declared. "So I asked a friend of mine, a professor of philosophy at the University of Osaka [Kiyokazu Washida] to explain it by writing a text for me, asking the questions: ‘What is fashion? Who is Yamamoto?’"
"And, Who is Yamamoto? He’s a man who may retire next year," added the designer with a sly smile. But during the fete at Azzedine Alaïa’s massive studio in the Marais, Yamamoto was in fine form, chatting with and receiving congratulations from a bevy of his cohorts, including Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Kenzo Takada, Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren and Martine Sitbon. For her part, Karan enthused as she pored over the pages of Yamamoto’s book, which includes a selection of memorable images from his 20-year career. "I remember all of these," she said, rifling through the book with the fervor of a devotee. Then she came across the text in Japanese script and said, "I only wish I could read it." Not to worry, Donna. An English version is available.
Meanwhile, you might call Viktor & Rolf Hedi’s newest slim men. The Dutch design duo, in Paris to work on their fragrance with partner L’Oréal, turned up at Alaïa’s party for Yamamoto Sunday night wearing Dior Homme suits by Hedi Slimane, with identical shirts and ties. "They’re samples," Rolf Snoeren said, clutching the lapels of his slim black jacket. "Hedi sent them to us." But man cannot live by Dior Homme alone. Snoeren confirmed that he and Viktor Horsting are working on a men’s collection, which will be unveiled in January for fall 2003 retailing.
IMITATION OF DIOR: There was a fashion emergency of sorts outside the Christian Dior couture show Monday: an impromptu Imitation of Christ fashion show and demonstration. "I wanted to do something totally spontaneous and ad hoc," said IOC’s Tara Subkoff. "I wanted to do pure spectacle — nothing serious —just to inject some humor into the fashion thing." And how. Arriving in ambulances, a score of energetic models piled out singing and, in the process, slowed the steady stream of cars chauffeuring Dior invitees. Incredulous security guards watched agape. But they weren’t the only people who were taken aback. Initially, talk was that IOC would stage a happening on Tuesday. "We decided to do it on Monday about two days ago," said Subkoff. So why didn’t they spread the word? "It’s one of my private art projects: seeing how long a secret can be kept." As for the clothes, Subkoff called it "Garbage Couture," or reworked vintage pieces. In a nod to the Dior show, models wore vintage Dior haute couture jewelry, hats and other accessories. "It just seemed to make sense," she said.
STRESS BREAKERS: Talk about branching out. While Gucci’s launching a massage line, Prada’s researching clothing prototypes for space travel. A Prada spokeswoman said that Miuccia Prada had been contacted by Milan University’s aerospace department to study new textures and volumes for trips into space.
Gucci’s massage line, due to bow at the end of the month, includes a foldable teak table with a padded mattress covered in dark brown GG vinyl and detachable headrest. Other items designed by creative director Tom Ford are massage oil containers in brushed steel and black cotton GG towels in three sizes. But patrons are likely to need a stress-reducing massage after writing the check for the table — a hefty $5,350.
“My personal philosophy to beauty is paying attention to oneself. I love to be outdoors, lots of fresh air, trying to take care of yourself as best you can. I always notice that comes through,” says Felicity Jones, the global face of @shiseido-owned @cledepeaubeauteus, which launches today. Head to WWD.com to read more about the actress’ love for beauty and how she prepared for her new role in “The Basis of Sex,” playing the young Ruth Bader Ginsburg. #wwdbeauty (📷: @dandoperalski)
For men’s fall 2018, @giuseppezanotti drew on elements from streetwear, sport, biker, combat and rock ‘n’ roll. Pictured here are a pair of shoes from the collection, featuring zippers, rhinestones, and silver hardware. Head to WWD.com to see a roundup of the accessories from Milan’s men’s fall 2018 shows. #wwdfashion (📷: Andrea Delb)
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of @ralphlauren’s snowboarding collection, the brand is mining its archives. The iconic brand is reintroducing vintage styles and dropping new designs for a color capsule that will be available in Ralph Lauren stores and @openingceremony on January 25. The capsule will consist of 10 pieces, including the Snow Beach Pullover, pictured here, which is a collector’s item that rapper Raekwon wore in Wu-Tang Clan’s “Can It Be All So Simple” video. #wwdfashion (📷: Tom Gould)
For @rochasofficial’s pre-fall 2018 collection, creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua channeled the sophisticated and intriguing Catherine Denevue in the film “Belle de Jour.” Polished collarless coats, midi skirts, suits and ’60s graphic motifs were all featured in the collection, adding a sense of discreet luxury. See the rest of the photos on WWD.com #wwdfashion
“We tried to produce clothing of that couture quality, but the most daunting part was that we only had a matter of days [to do it],” said costume designer Lou Eyrich, who recreated Gianni Versace’s iconic looks for @americancrimestoryfx. Eyrich searched online retailers and vintage shops for original pieces from the design house and for @penelopecruzoficial, who plays Donatella Versace. Head to WWD.com to read how she created the Versace world. #wwdfashion
Only three months after her stellar debut catwalk season, @kaiagerber has inked her first big design collaboration –– with @karllagerfeld. The collection blends Lagerfeld’s Parisian chic aesthetic and the model’s signature West Coast casual style via RTW, accessories, footwear and more. The #KarlLagerfeldxKaia collection will launch in September with a series of events. Get all the details on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion
Harrods plans to remove the famous statue of Princess Diana and Dodi Al Fayed from the bottom of the Egyptian escalators and hand it back to Mohamed Al-Fayed. “We are very proud to have played our role in celebrating the lives of Diana, Princess of Wales and Dodi Al Fayed at Harrods and to have welcomed people from around the world to visit the memorial for the past 20 years,” said Michael Ward, Harrods managing director. “With the announcement of the new official memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales at Kensington Palace, we feel that the time is right to return this memorial to Mr. Al Fayed and for the public to be invited to pay their respects at the palace.” More on the news, with reporting by @loreleimarfil, at WWD.com. #wwdnews