Fashion Scoops: A Page from Yohji … Imitation of Dior … Stress Breakers
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a...
A PAGE FROM YOHJI: Now that Yohji Yamamoto has thrown down the gauntlet and moved his show permanently up against couture, rumblings are growing louder that more designers will start showing ready-to-wear during couture week. No one has made a commitment yet, but Didier Grumbach, head of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, said Monday he’s not against it. "I hope so," he said. "We have four strong times in Paris and everyone should use those four times as he pleases." Word has it, however, that French luxury giant LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton, which has three couture houses: Givenchy, Christian Lacroix and Christian Dior, is strongly opposed to the idea.
On Sunday, Yamamoto was at the launch party for his new book, "Talking to Myself." "My design is hard to understand, at least I think so," he declared. "So I asked a friend of mine, a professor of philosophy at the University of Osaka [Kiyokazu Washida] to explain it by writing a text for me, asking the questions: ‘What is fashion? Who is Yamamoto?’"
"And, Who is Yamamoto? He’s a man who may retire next year," added the designer with a sly smile. But during the fete at Azzedine Alaïa’s massive studio in the Marais, Yamamoto was in fine form, chatting with and receiving congratulations from a bevy of his cohorts, including Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Kenzo Takada, Viktor Horsting, Rolf Snoeren and Martine Sitbon. For her part, Karan enthused as she pored over the pages of Yamamoto’s book, which includes a selection of memorable images from his 20-year career. "I remember all of these," she said, rifling through the book with the fervor of a devotee. Then she came across the text in Japanese script and said, "I only wish I could read it." Not to worry, Donna. An English version is available.
Meanwhile, you might call Viktor & Rolf Hedi’s newest slim men. The Dutch design duo, in Paris to work on their fragrance with partner L’Oréal, turned up at Alaïa’s party for Yamamoto Sunday night wearing Dior Homme suits by Hedi Slimane, with identical shirts and ties. "They’re samples," Rolf Snoeren said, clutching the lapels of his slim black jacket. "Hedi sent them to us." But man cannot live by Dior Homme alone. Snoeren confirmed that he and Viktor Horsting are working on a men’s collection, which will be unveiled in January for fall 2003 retailing.
IMITATION OF DIOR: There was a fashion emergency of sorts outside the Christian Dior couture show Monday: an impromptu Imitation of Christ fashion show and demonstration. "I wanted to do something totally spontaneous and ad hoc," said IOC’s Tara Subkoff. "I wanted to do pure spectacle — nothing serious —just to inject some humor into the fashion thing." And how. Arriving in ambulances, a score of energetic models piled out singing and, in the process, slowed the steady stream of cars chauffeuring Dior invitees. Incredulous security guards watched agape. But they weren’t the only people who were taken aback. Initially, talk was that IOC would stage a happening on Tuesday. "We decided to do it on Monday about two days ago," said Subkoff. So why didn’t they spread the word? "It’s one of my private art projects: seeing how long a secret can be kept." As for the clothes, Subkoff called it "Garbage Couture," or reworked vintage pieces. In a nod to the Dior show, models wore vintage Dior haute couture jewelry, hats and other accessories. "It just seemed to make sense," she said.
STRESS BREAKERS: Talk about branching out. While Gucci’s launching a massage line, Prada’s researching clothing prototypes for space travel. A Prada spokeswoman said that Miuccia Prada had been contacted by Milan University’s aerospace department to study new textures and volumes for trips into space.
Gucci’s massage line, due to bow at the end of the month, includes a foldable teak table with a padded mattress covered in dark brown GG vinyl and detachable headrest. Other items designed by creative director Tom Ford are massage oil containers in brushed steel and black cotton GG towels in three sizes. But patrons are likely to need a stress-reducing massage after writing the check for the table — a hefty $5,350.
There'll be no rest for those headed to Europe for men's, as Paris just closed the gap with Milan. According to a provisional calendar released by the Chambre Syndicale, Paris Men's Week will now open a day earlier on January 16. See new highlights on the official lineup on WWD.com. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
BREAKING: Jonathan Saunders is leaving @DVF. The designer has resigned from his position as chief creative officer of Diane von Furstenberg, the company said in a statement on Friday. At the time of his hire, von Furstenberg said Saunders’ arrival symbolized and facilitated her stepping back from the day-to-day duties that occupy the work of a full-time creative director. The British designer joined DVF in May 2016 and was in charge of all product categories. #wwdnews
For @versace_official’s spring ad campaign, the brand emphasized the archival prints from the spring tribute collection dedicated to the late Gianni Versace. Closing out the show were five of Gianni’s favorite models: Cindy, Naomi, Carla, Helena, and Claudia. Bowing on December 18, the new campaign is yet another tribute to supermodel-dom as the images by Steven Meisel are fronted by @iamnaomicampbell, @cturlington, @gisele and more. #wwdfashion
Four-time Oscar-nominated actress Annette Bening has been waiting 20 years to play Gloria Graham in "Film Stars Don't Die in Liverpool," which will be released on December 29. The movie about Graham – a Hollywood star known for her controversial relationship with a younger Englishman named Peter Turner – is based off a memoir Turned wrote. "She felt vulnerable to him, because she loved him, she really did love him. And anyone that we really truly are in love with, we re vulnerable to in a very deep way," said Bening. Read our full interview with the modern icon of an actress on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: @ninebagatelles; Styled by @cristinaehrlich)
The crisp white button down: a staple that can be dressed up or down and accessorized throughout the decades. Here, on a Art Basel-goer in 2017 on the left and on the iconic Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday” in 1953 on the right. #tbt #wwdfashion (📷: Andrew Morales)
Known for her work with @victoriassecret, 25-year-old model @georgiafowler is raising her profile in Hollywood. Fowler stars in @vincecamuto’s holiday campaign, which launched in partnership with “Pitch Perfect 3.” “Almost every shoot with Vince Camuto, I’ve had to face a fear…It was definitely a challenge. I’m so grateful for it, though. I’ve always wanted to be a pop star, so that was the perfect chance,” Fowler said. Head to WWD.com to read about Fowler’s experience modeling, including at the #VSFashionShow, and her relationship with Nick Jonas. #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
EXCLUSIVE: Huda Kattan just became the first beauty influencer to land a major beauty deal. Kattan's business, @hudabeauty, has received a minority investment from private equity firm TSG Consumer Partners. The brand, which industry sources say is on track to do $200 million in retail sales for 2017, will receive support on product, retail and geographic expansion through the deal. Get all the details on the deal and read @_a_collins' interview with Kattan on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: @jgreenery) #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Peruvian model @juanaburga_official – who is known for walking the runways of @rodarte, @viviennewestwood and @torybuch – is making the move to the big screen with drama “Los Últimos.” The film premiered in Argentina in November and arrives in the U.S. and Europe in 2018. On making the switch from modeling to acting, Burga told WWD: “It’s a completely different thing – a lot of people think it’s similar or try to connect things, especially like getting used to the camera or being looked at all the time or playing these different characrers, but film is a completely different story.” #wwdeye (📷: @jgreenery)
London’s newly opened @designmuseum will look back on the life and work of Azzedine Alaïa in a show that the designer helped to curate before he died of heart failure last month. The retrospective, which Alaïa had worked on with Mark Wilson, chief curator of the @groningermuseum, will look at the impact of his work worldwide. The show, “Azzedine Alaïa: The Couturier,” will run from May 10 to October 7. Read more about the exhibit on WWD.com #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @zefashioninsider)