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Fashion Scoops: Another Olivier Twist … Oh, Christ … Battle of the Bitches …

ANOTHER OLIVIER TWIST: Rochas has yet to comment on a WWD report Nov. 7 that it has hired designer Olivier Theyskens, possibly because the new partners have been too busy shopping. Rochas executives were spotted last week escorting the young Belgian...

ANOTHER OLIVIER TWIST: Rochas has yet to comment on a WWD report Nov. 7 that it has hired designer Olivier Theyskens, possibly because the new partners have been too busy shopping. Rochas executives were spotted last week escorting the young Belgian designer to the Paris showroom of Clerici Tessuto, an Italian silk house. As reported, Theyskens is expect to get the top design job at the Paris fashion and beauty firm, owned by Wella. An announcement could be forthcoming this week.

This story first appeared in the November 19, 2002 issue of WWD.  Subscribe Today.

OH, CHRIST: A West Village vintage dealer is charging Imitation of Christ’s Tara Subkoff with some nasty business practices, including misrepresenting some of his burlesque costumes as an IOC collection. The dealer also is charging her with a bill for $900 — on Subkoff’s MasterCard — which she has formally contested.

According to Cesar Padilla, who runs a shop called Cherry at 19 Eighth Avenue, Subkoff rented five burlesque pieces back in June for a reduced loan fee of $168. Padilla claims he gave her a break because she said she was using them for her recent not-for-profit ballet collaboration with the Stephen Petronio Co., and not for IOC. But when he saw that at least two pieces — a pair of sparkling shorts and a Pocahontas costume — were featured in IOC’s Paris invasion at the July couture shows, he flipped and said he processed a full charge on Subkoff’s account. (He said he received notification from MasterCard last week that she had protested the charge.)

“I’m a really nice guy,” Padilla said. “It’s ridiculous how she chooses to treat people.”

But Subkoff, through an IOC spokeswoman, said it was Padilla who was being ridiculous. She claims Subkoff bought the pieces outright and hadn’t even conceptualized the dance project until August, well after the Cherry pieces were used in the Paris show.

“Of course she’s disputing the charge,” the spokeswoman said. “It’s like if you bought something at Barneys, and then they decided you hadn’t paid enough, so they just charged you more.”

BATTLE OF THE BITCHES: Evidently Karl Lagerfeld didn’t always think thin is in. New York Observer scribe and Barneys creative director Simon Doonan has found the designer out. Doonan was recently perusing “Scavullo on Men” (Random House, 1977), in which Lagerfeld was quoted saying, “I don’t like skinny people. I think it’s very démodé.” Doonan has devoted his entire Simon Says column in this week’s Observer to Lagerfeld’s fickle philosophies. Of course, Lagerfeld is never one to hold the same view about things forever. Just ask his diet doctor and publisher of his latest diet book.

HOUSEWARMING: Among the duties in store for Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti during their New York tour this week is hosting the boutique opening of former Valentino executive Bruce Hoeksema’s high-end accessories store, VBH Gallery, at 940 Madison Avenue on Thursday night. Hoeksema, a 16-year veteran of Valentino’s company, running both its U.S. and French operations as well as consulting on design, recruited Peter Marino to renovate a former bank to house his handmade crocodile bags and belts, platinum jewelry designs and modern art and furniture. Among the invited guests are Nan Kempner, Pat Buckley, Rena Sindi, Wes Anderson, Jake Gyllenhaal and Toni Collette.