BUSH'S 21 AT 21: Elite model Lauren Bush and all her lovely friends will celebrate her 21st birthday Friday at the 21 Club. Her beau David Lauren and pals Amanda and Gillian Hearst are expected to help Bush toast her legal drinking age status. Things shouldn't get too out of hand, though — Bush's mother, Sharon, and her alleged companion Gerald Tsai are also expected to share in the festivities.

EXCHANGE PROGRAM: Speculation has it that the restaurant at the Four Seasons hotel in Manhattan is poised to welcome France's most celebrated chef, Joel Robuchon, later this year. While the restaurant declined to confirm any deal, Robuchon's latest move is widely considered a fait accompli in Paris. American expansion is certainly on his menu. In September, a Robuchon outpost is slated to bow at the MGM Grand Hotel in Las Vegas. Robuchon, who collaborated with Pierre Yves Rochon on all his eateries, is said to have entrusted the French designer again for the Four Season's makeover, with a rumored assist from I.M. Pei.

SURF SHACK: Designer Tracy Feith has closed his tony East Hampton shop in favor of a tiny beachside bungalow cottage on the quieter stretch of Montauk Highway. "Girls can come in and shop straight from the beach in their bikinis and flip-flops," said Feith of the casual environ. Of course, it also might be a matter of convenience for the avid surfer, who now can just pop across the street to survey the waves. There are even surfboards on hand in case a big one rolls in.

MI CASA SU CASA: A toast is never complete without a trace of a roast, as was proved by Jonathan Tisch when he raised a glass to his parents Bob and Joan at Armani Casa. The couple was honored for their longtime support of the Gay Men's Health Crisis Partner. Their son recalled his mother's generosity while volunteering at the group's office decades back. Well aware of the distress caused by a broken copy machine, Tisch, who was only known as "Joan," wrote a $275 check on the spot for a new one.Darren Star, another guest, didn't have to worry about checks when dining in the Big Apple with Anthony Bourdain. Chalk it up to research. Star is producing the Food network program based on Bourdain's tell-all book "Kitchen Confidential," which debuts in September. Star is counting on Jaime King, who plays a hostess, to ratchet up the fashion quota. "In New York, people go to restaurants to be seen as much as to eat," Star said.

Phil Donahue, host of the Giorgio Armani and GQ event, didn't mind throwing his weight around. Asked what he would change on tv today, the former talk show host said, "I would hope that we could get away from this food fight ... and stop calling dissent anti-America. We can't have democracy if we don't have dissent."

CHOO IN: Seems as though supermodels still rule in Hollywood fashion circles. Even the promise of a smooch from Paris Hilton couldn't entice bidders at Wednesday night's Four Inches auction, sponsored by Jimmy Choo and Cartier, to empty their pocketbooks for the Elton John AIDS foundation. A pair of Elle Macpherson photographs by Ellen Von Unwerth went for $76,000, and a shot of Kate Moss by Sam Taylor Wood went for $57,000. Neither model was present, though Rebecca Romijn, Rachel Hunter and Minnie Driver were on hand to shill their nude portraits. Jimmy Choo president Tamara Mellon admitted she conceived the idea because she was bored with black-tie benefits and because she's an avid collector of coffee table books. "I thought I might like to have my own book to add to my collection," she said.

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