Fashion Scoops: Cardin Capers … Under the Big Top … Hot Launch …
CARDIN CAPERS: Could Pierre Cardin finally be ready to part with his far-flung fashion business and its tangled web of licenses? Sources said the designer met last week in Paris with investment bankers to accelerate the process. Cardin...
CARDIN CAPERS: Could Pierre Cardin finally be ready to part with his far-flung fashion business and its tangled web of licenses? Sources said the designer met last week in Paris with investment bankers to accelerate the process. Cardin has been trying to unload his vast licensing empire for several years. Italy’s Multipartners is among the firms leading the hunt, the sources said. But finding a buyer for his hundreds of licenses has been no easy feat. The highly secretive Cardin, 82, who insists on running every aspect of the business himself, also owns the Maxim restaurants, hotels and a theater in Paris.
UNDER THE BIG TOP: Olympus Fashion Week is paying homage to all the work that goes into the collections via the design of the tents in Bryant Park, which open on Wednesday. Olympus asked former Gibò designer Julie Verhoeven to create this season’s tent exteriors, street banners and other fashion week materials. Verhoeven worked with the advertising agency ink&co on the execution of the plans, which call for a mixed-media collage of images from the runway with Verhoeven’s illustrations of scantily clad models being made up or in fittings, a sewing machine and needle and thread.
HOT LAUNCH: Orv Madden, the founder of teen retailer Hot Topic, isn’t one to sit idle. After being retired for less than three years, the visionary who connected the dots between youth, music and fashion is planning to launch a chain of four stores by October, he said. “I think I’ve had enough rest,” explained Madden. He wouldn’t disclose details of the venture, but the company’s Web site, metroparkusa.com, describes Metropark as a “new breed of lifestyle retailer” working with contemporary designers and focusing on — what else? — music, fashion and art.
FASHION AHOY: New York Fashion Week doesn’t set float officially until Wednesday, but R&B temptress Monica plans to christen the festivities a little early by hosting the launch of Tamsen today at 4 p.m. at Chelsea Piers. The collection, designed by Mimi Wolfe with Sue Firestone, is inspired by the paintings of Sue’s husband, Robert W. Firestone, and the couple’s journeys aboard their 153-foot sailing yacht, Tamsen. Stylist Patty Wilson is organizing the looks in the show, which will feature prints taken from Firestone’s paintings.OLYMPIAN JUMP: London Fashion Week is losing another big name this season — and this time the Olympics are to blame. After creating all the outfits for the opening and closing ceremonies in Athens — more than 6,000 — London-based designer Sophia Kokosalaki is pooped — and behind schedule with her spring collection. As a result, she will be showing in Paris rather than London. “She hasn’t had time to get her collection together yet for the London shows,” said a spokeswoman for the designer. As for the future, she added, “We’re not saying that Sophia will definitely return to London next season — we’ll see how it goes in Paris.”
SWIMMING IN DIAMONDS: Swimwear giant Gottex will have a fresh sparkle this season on the runway in more ways than one. Gideon Oberson, the Israeli designer who just took over as Gottex’s creative director, plans to unveil a one-of-kind suit dripping in $18 million worth of diamonds at the company’s show Wednesday night as he introduces his first collection for the brand. About 200 brilliant-shaped diamonds will surround a whopping 103-carat giant pear-shaped diamond, all of which are provided by jeweler Vivid Collection. The models also are slated to sport diamond jewelry galore from the firm.
NOTES FROM THE UNDERGROUND: Yeohlee has rounded up Elsa Klensch, Constance White, Christina Ha and Anna Anisimova to be among the artists, actresses, gallery owners and other creative types to model in her “Fashion Underground” show Thursday. Like the rest of the crowd, they will need MetroCards to get there: The event is being staged inside the 42nd Street and Sixth Avenue subway station.
DON’T JUST STAND THERE: After opting for quiet showroom appointments with its collection displayed on hangers, Ellen Tracy will return to the runway on Sept. 14 at Olympus Fashion Week for the first time in about four years. A spokeswoman said the Liz Claiborne-owned company, which originally had planned a walk-through presentation, made the decision on Friday because it believed the spring collection merited a full-fledged show.MARKET CHIC: Gilles Dufour is the latest recruit in the trend for designers to create inexpensive fashion. The Paris-based Dufour has been signed by the French supermarket chain Monoprix to whip up a capsule collection that will hit stores in France late this year. Dufour described the looks as “fresh and young,” and said that the partnership might continue in the future. As reported, Chanel’s Karl Lagerfeld is set to give disposable chic some high-fashion flavor with his hotly anticipated collection for Swedish fast-fashion giant Hennes & Mauritz, which will be unveiled in Paris on Sept. 17.
GOODBYE CALVIN, HELLO DIEGO: Eleven years after she set up the European press office for Calvin Klein in Milan, Noona Smith-Petersen will join the Tod’s Group as global director of corporate p.r. worldwide for all of the group’s brands: Tod’s, Hogan, Fay and Roger Vivier, starting in mid-October.
In her new post, Petersen, 42, will work side-by-side with Tod’s group chief, Diego Della Valle. The Danish-born blonde will oversee the day-to-day running of the press office and supervise special events. Della Valle has also tapped Carmen Borgonovo, the former accessories director at W and editor in chief of W Jewelry, to supervise Hogan’s fashion image.
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast