Fashion Scoops: Dare to Wear … Horn of Plenty … Professor Rucci …
DARE TO WEAR: Has photographing all that flesh for Abercrombie & Fitch given Bruce Weber a new appreciation for, ahem, clothing? Sources in Europe said Weber has designed a men’s collection, including swim trunks and cowboy...
DARE TO WEAR: Has photographing all that flesh for Abercrombie & Fitch given Bruce Weber a new appreciation for, ahem, clothing? Sources in Europe said Weber has designed a men’s collection, including swim trunks and cowboy shirts, and labeled it “Weber Built.” The casual line is expected to be available exclusively at the forthcoming Dover Street Market in London, a Comme des Garçons emporium featuring Rei Kawakubo’s various lines amid concessions by everyone from Lanvin and Raf Simons to Azzedine Alaïa.
HORN OF PLENTY: Before exiting Paris on Friday night to attend Charlotte Casiraghi’s 18th birthday party in Monaco over the weekend, Karl Lagerfeld had time to whip up a Chanel couture dress for Princess Caroline of Hanover’s daughter – and crank out yet another fashion collaboration. This time, he’s teamed up with shoe guru Walter Steiger for a range of footwear reminiscent of a rhino’s horn. The pointy, multistrapped styles, under the Lagerfeld Gallery label, are slated for January delivery.
PROFESSOR RUCCI: Ralph Rucci recently found himself around a kitchen table in the Virginia suburbs chatting with fledgling designers — new graduates from Marymount University, a small Catholic school with big fashion aspirations.
“Do you think men will ever wear skirts?” asked Rucci, critiquing a student’s portfolio of bridal gowns, including one for the groom. “You put a skirt on him like [Jean Paul] Gaultier. Poetic.”
Rucci was keeping a promise. This spring, flu sidelined his plans to accept Marymount's Designer of the Year Award, previous recipients of which have included Oscar de la Renta, Rose Marie Bravo and Mark Badgley and James Mischka. Rucci rescheduled for lunch late last month at a school benefactor’s home, where he delighted in the young designers’ creativity, like the junior prom dress with a collar stretching into a glove, a collection inspired by chocolate and separates made from recycled fabric.
Rucci also offered tips: cut organza on the bias to achieve a blouson effect and avoid bodice-crossing princess seams. “They always look commercial,” said Rucci, while warning how “most buyers can only digest one design concept in one garment. That’s why I say, ‘Simplify, simplify.’”Rucci, who dressed his sister as a child growing up in Philadelphia, got his start in New York 25 years ago at Halston. After that he was fired from a series of jobs. “I thought I could do it differently and I couldn’t. If you’re hired to do a specific job, you do it,” he said.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion