Fashion Scoops: Donna’s Collection … Winding Down … Long John …
DONNA’S COLLECTION: Regarding that high-level designer headhunt going on over at Donna Karan, the company’s long-running search for a new creative director for women’s wear has led to an interesting twist. Andrew Comley, who, as...
DONNA’S COLLECTION: Regarding that high-level designer headhunt going on over at Donna Karan, the company’s long-running search for a new creative director for women’s wear has led to an interesting twist. Andrew Comley, who, as reported, was leaving the company in April to move to London, has been persuaded to stick around, at least for now. While Comley’s eventual plans aren’t quite clear, he has worked with Karan to design the spring collection, which will be shown Sept. 20.
But that hasn’t stopped LVMH honchos from continuing their recruitment efforts or the rumors about Karan’s future role with the brand. According to sources, one of her former assistants, Peter Speliopoulos, who went on to work for Cerruti for a brief spell, was approached earlier this year about returning to the company, but could not be persuaded to do so.
WINDING DOWN: Oscar de la Renta creative director Adam Lippes will reduce his responsibilities at the company. Sources said the 29-year-old Lippes plans to launch a unisex underwear line named A+DAM in 2003. Lippes will retain a position at Oscar de la Renta, but sources did not disclose details about the extent of the new role or when it would begin. When reached by telephone Wednesday, Lippes and de la Renta declined comment.
LONG JOHN: Construction is proceeding at full tilt on Rue Saint Honore, future site of the first freestanding John Galliano store in the world. The designer hopes to have it ready in time for Paris fashion week, Oct. 3 to 11. Meanwhile, Galliano is also going great guns on his plans to introduce men’s wear. Although the first collection might not be shown until mid-2003, he’s already scouting out factories to produce it.
TRIPLE PLAY: There will be no rest for the wicked cool this season. Once upon a time, Oct. 2 was slated to be a breather for the fashion pack between Milan and Paris. Now it’s shaping up to be a banner day. Christian Lacroix plans to schedule an intimate presentation that evening after Undercover, Collette Dinnigan, Yohji Yamamoto and Martin Margiela. As reported, Lacroix nixed plans to do his usual mega-show at the Carrousel du Louvre and is going off-calendar. On Wednesday, he said he felt his collection "lost" something when presented in the big room. To wit: Lacroix plans to show in a smaller venue, mixing pieces from his signature, Bazar and jeans collections on models — with a bit of vintage thrown in for good measure. "I want it to be a real working session," he said.
SARAH’S STOP: Sarah Jessica Parker, due to deliver her first child this fall, will definitely be making at least one planned stop during fashion week: to Narciso Rodriguez’s Thursday night Bryant Park show. The designer actually whipped up a couple of special pregnancy looks for several press and social events in the next month, although apparently, she has something else in mind for the Emmy Awards Sept. 22 at the Shrine Auditorium in L.A. But then again, who knows?
HAIR RAISER: It looks like all those hours Ashley Judd logs at the racetrack watching her husband, Dario Franchitti, speed by are rubbing off on the actress. A windblown-looking Judd arrived at the San Francisco Opera gala opening last week sporting a spiky I-stuck-my-finger-in-the-light-socket hairdo. "It’s my faux hawk," she joked, slinky in a sequined Badgley Mischka gown. "I’m playing a cop in my new movie and I have to have a regular hairdo forthisrole, so this is my night to have some fun." Judd is filming "Blackout" in San Francisco with director Philip Kaufman.
CALLING D&G: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are expanding their movie work. After doing the entire wardrobe for Angelina Jolie in "Life or Something Like It," they’ve designed Colin Farrell’s wardrobe for the new fall thriller "Phone Booth." It wasn’t exactly a huge assignment — Farrell’sentire wardrobe consists of one black single-breasted Dolce & Gabbana suit with a cranberry shirt. Farrell plays a slick New York p.r. agent trapped in a West 53rd Street phone booth for a day by a mad man. What, no cell phone?
SELLING OUT?: Miguel Adrover took no prisoners in his earlier collections, skewering the corporate logos of Burberry, Polo Ralph Lauren and the New York Yankees in the process, but he’s taking his relaunch a little more seriously, having created a commemorative T-shirt for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, emblazoned with its crest and — egads — available to the public for the first time. The $30 tees, styled with a white cotton V-neck and woven polo-style cuff and collar, will be sold online at mbfwnyc.com starting Monday, with a portion of the sales to help finance fashion shows for new designers.
HENDY FOR HER: Four years after launching his signature men’s wear, designer Francis Hendy will introduce a women’s collection at his Sept. 19 runway show. The Trinidad native, who apprenticed with a custom tailor after moving to New York 15 years ago, has been creating custom clothes for Macy Gray, ’NSync and Musiq Soul Child out of his West 39th Street studio, building a business estimated around $200,000 in annual sales.
"I’m looking forward to dressing women in lots of color," Hendy said. "My clothes are about fun and happiness, clothes that are easy to wear and that offer a lot of pieces that interchange."
Hendy is also opening a new store Sept. 20 at 65 Thompson St. in SoHo, his first since closing a signature shop in the Flatbush neighborhood of Brooklyn that closed in the late Nineties.
NOT QUITE RED: Sasha Lazard will help MaxMara with the U.S. launch of its Sportmax collection with a Tuesday performance at Splashlight Studios. The trance-soprano singer, whose latest album is called "The Myth of Red" — after her favorite color — will naturally don Sportmax for the event. But there was one problem: Within the entire collection, there’s not a stitch of red, leaving Lazard to debate between a sheer eggplant bohemian dress that is cut on the bias or a metallic lace number with bell sleeves. "Like my music, [Sportmax] combines the whimsical with the contemporary," Lazard said. The company is sending out its invitations to the event wrapped in a leather cuff, which will also be sold at the MaxMara SoHo boutique at 450 West Broadway, beginning in October.
NEXT ON THE BLOCK: Continuing to fill in the West 14th Street retail ranks, designer Yigal Azrouël has signed a lease to build his first shop at 408 West 14th St., next to the new Carlos Miele store and near Rubin Chapelle’s recently opened shop. Azrouël leased the 2,500-square-foot space at a rent of approximately $65 a foot, and plans to open his store in January.
"We definitely wanted to have a concept that’s going to add something to the area," Azrouël said. "Everything will be moving in the store, so that it’s not just going to be beautiful clothes. It’s going to be much more than that."The designer plans to incorporate a mixed media display of traditional exposed brick walls with synthetic fixtures and large digital displays that will broadcast a variety of images 24 hours a day, reflecting the all-night-party atmosphere of the neighborhood. Architect Dror Benshetrit, who has not previously worked on a retail concept, will design the store, he said.
"What I love about New York is the old and the new are going on right next to each other, and that’s what I want to convey in this store," Azrouël said. "The ambiance is just as important as the clothes."
ROSSI’S STAYING: Sergio Rossi is due to rechristen its renovated boutique on Rue Faubourg Saint Honore in Paris with a press party tonight. The shoe and accessories company is now controlled by Gucci Group, which, along with Sergio Rossi’s son, Gianvito, denied market talk in Milan that his father was leaving the firm he founded. Gianvito, who works with his father, said the two of them "have no desire to leave the company. My father is still very much involved in the business: He coordinates a team of people and is happy with the growth of his company."
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews