FRESH START: Graeme Black, head of the women's ready-to-wear design team at Salvatore Ferragamo, is preparing to launch a women's collection bearing his own name. Come September, the Scottish designer will present a test collection of about 20 to 25 pieces to retailers and journalists to gauge interest and market needs. "We don't feel the need to rush into this," Black said.
Black and his business partner, interior designer Jonathan Reed, are negotiating with Italian manufacturers to produce a more full-fledged collection for fall-winter 2006. Black said there's a niche in the market for high-quality clothes, especially leather pieces and knitwear, with a customized fit. "[There are] people who want to buy but they are not finding what they want," he said.
Black will continue to design for Ferragamo and consult for other brands. The designer left Ferragamo in April of last year after a reported clash with management. He returned to the house on a consultancy basis last September. Black said he just inked another two-year contract with Ferragamo.
EAST MEETS WEST: Leave it to Donna Karan to help Westerners get a better understanding of the East. The designer kicked in a few bucks to help Robert Wilson stage the 14th-century Indonesian epic "Il La Galigo" at Lincoln Center through Saturday. Karan considered, but passed on, the chance to design the costumes for the masterful production, which features 50 actors, dancers and musicians.
Joachim Herzog and Yusman Siswan did the honors, creating regal attire, darling frog costumes and a scene-stealing rainbow-colored sarong. Some struggled to sit through the three-hour, intermissionless production, but Mikhail Baryshnikov was one guest happy to be seated.
FRENCH WOMEN DO GET PRESS: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton expects its designers to do their share of headline grabbing, but this year, Veuve Clicquot chief executive officer Mireille Guiliano has been giving Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld a good chase. Her bestseller, "French Women Don't Get Fat," is available in 29 countries, with more than one million copies sold in the U.S. Needless to say, her day job at Veuve, an LVMH-backed company, gets a mention every time she is interviewed.
"You start one way as a baby, but why shouldn't you be able to choose your own path as opposed to culturally people telling you which way to go?" - Thom Browne at his men's spring 2018 show, where he celebrated gender fluidity. #pfw #wwdmens (📷: @delphineachard)
"I think that all anyone really wants in life is to have people understand us for who we actually are, despite everything," says Ruth Negga. The actress talks "Preachers" season 2 and more on WWD.com. #wwdeye (📷: Dan Doperalski)