FRESH START: Graeme Black, head of the women's ready-to-wear design team at Salvatore Ferragamo, is preparing to launch a women's collection bearing his own name. Come September, the Scottish designer will present a test collection of about 20 to 25 pieces to retailers and journalists to gauge interest and market needs. "We don't feel the need to rush into this," Black said.
Black and his business partner, interior designer Jonathan Reed, are negotiating with Italian manufacturers to produce a more full-fledged collection for fall-winter 2006. Black said there's a niche in the market for high-quality clothes, especially leather pieces and knitwear, with a customized fit. "[There are] people who want to buy but they are not finding what they want," he said.
Black will continue to design for Ferragamo and consult for other brands. The designer left Ferragamo in April of last year after a reported clash with management. He returned to the house on a consultancy basis last September. Black said he just inked another two-year contract with Ferragamo.
EAST MEETS WEST: Leave it to Donna Karan to help Westerners get a better understanding of the East. The designer kicked in a few bucks to help Robert Wilson stage the 14th-century Indonesian epic "Il La Galigo" at Lincoln Center through Saturday. Karan considered, but passed on, the chance to design the costumes for the masterful production, which features 50 actors, dancers and musicians.
Joachim Herzog and Yusman Siswan did the honors, creating regal attire, darling frog costumes and a scene-stealing rainbow-colored sarong. Some struggled to sit through the three-hour, intermissionless production, but Mikhail Baryshnikov was one guest happy to be seated.
FRENCH WOMEN DO GET PRESS: LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton expects its designers to do their share of headline grabbing, but this year, Veuve Clicquot chief executive officer Mireille Guiliano has been giving Marc Jacobs and Karl Lagerfeld a good chase. Her bestseller, "French Women Don't Get Fat," is available in 29 countries, with more than one million copies sold in the U.S. Needless to say, her day job at Veuve, an LVMH-backed company, gets a mention every time she is interviewed.GOLDEN EARS: Fred Segal in Santa Monica was rechristened as the second happiest place on earth last Wednesday night, when Fred Segal Fun owner and Disney Vintage designer Jackie Brander celebrated Disneyland's 50th anniversary with the help of more than 300 Mickey fans, including Melissa Rivers, Jason Biggs and Jose Canseco. Watercolored martinis were a-flowing as the crowd moved from station to station — from a beading table to a photo op with Minnie. They also shopped Brander's store, which featured the limited-edition Disneyland 50th Collection. Skull-and-bones Mickey shirts appealed to Rivers, whose four-year-old son, Cooper, was away visiting with his dad. Rivers planned to make it up to him with a trip to the Magic Kingdom thanks to a pair of free tickets in the VIP goodie bag.
For its next men’s wear collection, @roberto_cavalli will show as a special guest at #PittiUomo, running from June 12-15. The brand, which has Florence in its roots, will relaunch its men’s wear collection, which will be presented separately from women’s wear for the first time since Paul Surridge was appointed creative director in May. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
“I was making the guacamole when my scout saw me,” says model @stuckinteenage on being discovered just six months ago while working at @chipotlemexicangrill. Since then Williams has signed with @dnamodels, walked in her first show at @calvinklein and landed on the cover of @vogueitalia – a high point of any model’s career. To read @lisajlockwood’s full interview with the model on her experiences thus far, head to WWD.com – link in bio. (📷: George Chinsee)
“I love the idea of dialogue, period. It’s where I’ve always gotten my inspiration from: hearing other women speak, their journeys and their paths,” said @hereisgina, who delivered the keynote speech at the @sxsw conference for @createcultivate, the online platform and conference series for women. For her two panels, Rodriguez chose female empowering, female-led and female entrepreneurs to focus on. Head to WWD.com to read more about her thoughts on Time’s Up, growing up in a family of women and why we “need a girls’ club.” #wwdeye #sxsw (📷: @jgreenery)
Leading luxury brand are shaking things up to keep up with streetwear. Case in point: the arrival of @mrkimjones as artistic director of @diorhomme. Jones, who succeeds @Kris_Van_Assche, is seen as one of the handful of designers who can actually straddle the luxury and streetwear worlds — which could lead to even more changes at established brands. What could this mean for the rest of the menswear landscape? Head to WWD.com to find out what experts predict #wwdfashion (📷: @franckmura)
“It’s like buying groceries. You’re going to buy the best mango, the best mozzarella, the best things. You have to, or others are going to take it all,” said @gabrielahearst on why she uses only the finest fabrics. Last week, Hearst received her first @cfda nomination for Womenswear Designer of the Year, and earlier this month she opened a permanent showroom in Paris. To read @jessiredale’s interview with the designer and find out why this is shaping up to be a big year for her, head to WWD.com. #wwdfashion (📷: @francoisgoize)
“It’s an interesting thing, playing a younger version of your mother. It’s an interesting concept. I adore my mom and love her in every capacity, but it was just something that had never crossed my mind,” says @anniemstarke on playing a young Joan Castleman in “The Wife.” The same role will be played by her mother Glenn Close. Read more about her growing up in the film industry as the daughter of producer John H. Starke and Close and what she has planned for the future #wwdeye (📷: @nataliamantini)
@asics is launching a new streetwear sneaker inspired by its latest ambassador, @steveaoki. The Hyper-Kenzen x Aoki, which will launch at @footlocker stores exclusively tomorrow, is a slip-on style that incorporates the brand’s proprietary Gel technology through beads integrated into the midsole for comfort and endurance. Read the full story on WWD.com.