MUSICALLY INCLINED: It was the top of the pops Monday night at Hedi Slimane’s Dior Homme show, which closed men’s fashion week in Paris. Among the front row denizens were Malcom McClaren, Casey Spooner of FischerSpooner, Neil Tennant of the Pet Shop Boys and Sir Elton John in a crested blazer. “It was like Jack the Ripper on acid,” said Sir Elton, who had his eye on a short black tailcoat with sequin trim. But these musical greats probably won’t be the first to take Dior Homme from runway to reality. Karl Lagerfeld, noticing the models had silver chains wrapped around their wrists, removed his own chain belt and made it into a bracelet.
This story first appeared in the January 28, 2003 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
Meanwhile, Bloomingdale’s fashion director Kal Ruttenstein has been going for fittings chez Dior Homme. “[Hedi] offered to make me a suit. I went for my second fitting today and I’ll have a black suit on March 15. I was a little worried the lapels might be too narrow,” he deadpanned. “But everything is in proportion.”
ON WITH THE SHOW: Never mind the pending closure of the Thierry Mugler fashion house. On Monday, the French firm went ahead with its fall men’s wear show. “We had already booked everything,” Perrine Houdoux, head of Mugler’s fashion business, explained on the sidelines. “[Men’s designer] Jean-Luc Testu had worked hard on the collection and we felt it was absolutely normal to show. We’re going to continue to run operations as always until a final decision is taken.” Mugler employees convene again on Feb. 26 to hear more about the shutdown, proposed by house owner Groupe Clarins, which will continue to market Mugler fragrances. Meanwhile, as a swan song, Testu’s leather-loaded collection was a hit. The audience leapt to its feet, waving the black silk squares that served as invitations.
DIOR REVERSAL: Parfums Christian Dior is revamping its Dior Addict fragrance campaign in response to protests from Faces and Voices of Recovery, and two other drug and alcohol dependence groups. The campaign, whose images include a print ad of a wild-haired woman with a Dior Addict bottle and the tag line “Admit It,” had riled the groups, which said they glorified addiction and belittled 12-step programs — the first step of which is to admit there is a problem with the substance.
“Parfums Christian Dior has never had any intention to trivialize or glamorize drug abuse or to offend individuals who suffer from or are trying to recover from addictions,” said Claude Martinez, president of Parfums Christian Dior worldwide, in a letter to the group. As such, the tag line will be dropped from the brand’s Web site and forthcoming promotional materials and ads. As well, Martinez said, products will not be referred to as “Addict” alone in promos, and an image of a bicep with a lipstick tattoo will be terminated. The statement “The new perfume from Christian Dior” will also be added to existing visuals.
FIT FOR A QUEEN: Mikimoto pulled together 482 diamonds and 117 pearls, including a dozen South Sea pearls, for the new design of the Miss USA tiara. Donald Trump and Miss USA Shauntay Hinton will help unveil the $150,000 crown on Feb. 5 in Manhattan, but armed guards will carry the bounty.
THE JOHN JOB WATCH: For a man who says he’s going on a monthlong vacation to Thailand, John Bartlett has certainly been working the market overtime. Just after Bartlett was seen at the offices of J. Crew about a possible job as creative director a few weeks ago — where he’d have to get along with incoming ceo Mickey Drexler — the designer was also spotted in the offices of Ecko Unlimited, talking about the possibility of designing its men’s wear.