Fashion Scoops: Out with the Not-So-Old … Friendly Visit … Waiting Game …
OUT WITH THE NOT-SO-OLD: Karl Lagerfeld is cleaning house again — this time in Biarritz and Monaco — and serious furniture collectors are already buzzing. The designer has turned to Sotheby’s to sell 240 pieces of 20th-century items...
OUT WITH THE NOT-SO-OLD: Karl Lagerfeld is cleaning house again — this time in Biarritz and Monaco — and serious furniture collectors are already buzzing. The designer has turned to Sotheby’s to sell 240 pieces of 20th-century items in Paris on May 15. The auction, estimated to bring between $3 million and $4 million, boasts all the big names of French modernism including Jean-Michel Frank, Eileen Gray, Jacques-Emile Ruhlmann, Pierre Legrain and Alberto Giacometti. But Frank is definitely first among equals in the collection. Some 50 pieces — tables, lamps and even a chimney item by the designer — represent one of the biggest single collections to hit the market. Lagerfeld’s last clearinghouse, a series of sales with Christie’s in 2000 to empty his Paris mansion of its 18th-century contents, netted $28.5 million.
Meanwhile, the multitasking designer has mounted an exhibition about himself that bowed Wednesday at The Bon Marché department store. The eclectic display offers Lagerfeld’s take on everything from photography to philosophy to fashion via video monologues. There’s even a souvenir on offer: a CD featuring a selection of Lagerfeld’s favorite songs compiled by Michel Gaubert.
FRIENDLY VISIT: Patrizio Bertelli may have sold his 25.5 percent stake in Fendi to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in 2001, but he certainly hasn’t lost interest in the Roman fashion and accessories house. Minutes before the Miu Miu show in Milan this week, the Prada chief executive paid a surprise visit to the Fendi showrooms, where the new Fendi Selleria line was bowing. Was he checking out the competition? "He came to say hello and that was very nice of him, but that’s all — he still has a great relationship with them," said a Fendi spokeswoman, "them" being Carla Fendi and Silvia Venturini Fendi.
WAITING GAME: Rick Owens showed his signature collection in Paris for the first time on Wednesday, and Georges Wichner, the new president of Revillon, was spotted at the show. As reported, Revillon is expected to tap Owens to help rejuvenate the fur house, and help it expand into accessories. But perhaps Owens didn’t want to steal any thunder from his European debut. Word has it, the official announcement won’t happen until later in the Paris week.
THE BLOOM ROOM: Lesly Zamor, whose floral design shop Bloom Flowers has become a Chelsea fixture over the past decade, is closing the Bloom Ballroom event space next door at 48 West 21st Street, a victim of New York’s down market for any sort of hoopla. But he’s coming back with a new concept, partnering with restaurateur Lesly Bernard, to open a new Indian fusion restaurant in the space called Taj.
The Leslys — both are natives of Haiti — have been friends for 15 years, but never entered a business venture together before they came up with Taj, which opens on March 24. Bernard most recently designed Clementine and NYC, and was formerly partners with Keith McNally at Pravda, but was turned on by the Indian concept after Zamor began to explore its influences in his floral displays. Jonathan Lindenauer collaborated on the menu.
"We’re going to design the restaurant with accents of color and Indian design," Bernard said. "It’s not going to be a kitschy idea of Indian cuisine."
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion