Fashion Scoops: Peace on Earth … Mercy Beacoup … Tea Time …
PEACE ON EARTH: He’s a designer, photographer, publisher and diet guru. And now Karl Lagerfeld, fashion’s ultimate multitasker, can add diplomat to his résumé. On Thursday, he called a time-out in Europe’s luxury wars,...
PEACE ON EARTH: He’s a designer, photographer, publisher and diet guru. And now Karl Lagerfeld, fashion’s ultimate multitasker, can add diplomat to his résumé. On Thursday, he called a time-out in Europe’s luxury wars, inviting Hermès chairman Jean-Louis Dumas and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton fashion honcho Yves Carcelle to Chanel’s Rue Cambon couture studios for a mini showing of pre-fall ready-to-wear. The presentation was intended to show off the savoir faire of the specialty ateliers Chanel now owns, among them the embroidery house Lesage and haute shoemaker Massaro. "They might be our competitors, but they’re our clients, too," Lagerfeld said of LVMH and Hermès, which use the various Chanel-owned ateliers to make products. "Very different," Carcelle offered, as a review of Lagerfeld’s collection before greeting Dumas and assorted Chanel executives. "It’s great that our industry can have such camaraderie."
Meanwhile, Lagerfeld also called a cease fire in the war against smoking. As guests arrived at the show, they were presented with white cigarette packs with Chanel’s famous double-C emblem embossed on the front. Inside were dark chocolate sticks by pastry master Pierre Herme. "I’ve never smoked, but I like the attitude of smoking," Lagerfeld explained. "We can’t always be so politically correct, non?"
MERCY BEAUCOUP: Neil LaBute didn’t have to go to a costume designer to wardrobe his new play, "The Mercy Seat." He instead turned to Donna Karan, who opened her DKNY and Donna Karan New York stores on Madison Avenue to actors Sigourney Weaver and Liev Schreiber and let them pick out what they needed for the show. What’s more, she’s hosting the opening-night party at the collection flagship on Dec. 18 and expects a crowd including Steven Soderbergh, Kristin Davis, Parker Posey, Paul Rudd and Molly Price.
TEA TIME: Talk about a project suiting a designer to a T, or make that tea. British luxury firm Waterford Wedgwood has tapped penultimate British designer Vivienne Westwood to design a tea set for an upcoming collection. It will be unveiled next month in Paris at the Maison & Objet home fair. Where’s the Mad Hatter?
CHRISTMAS 90210: Rodeo Drive is getting into the season’s spirit with Rodeo W-rap. A breakfast, to be served this Saturday all along Via Rodeo, a cobblestone footpath off the fabled thoroughfare, starts at 9 a.m., followed by live modeling at Badgley Mischka, and other designer shop doings. The festivities will also include a freestyle group rapping about how great Rodeo is ("All I want for Christmas is some Gucci for my momma," and "Yo — on the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me a Jaguar S-Type with jet black leather seats. So now I’m chic, like Lalique with the ornaments driving down Rodeo sporting Ralph Lauren threads"). There will also be a Jaguar Santa sleigh and a CD with the song will be in the goody bag.
PANTY PARTIES: It seems that store parties are getting racier and racier. Last week, Agent Provocateur threw a fete in honor of its store opening requesting "Sexual, Napoleonic, or La Belle Epoque-style" dress. On Tuesday night, Boudoir, the boutique on Mulberry Street, hosted a "panty party" benefiting the Ovarian Cancer Research Fund. The event, hosted by underwear company Lilo, featured revelers in just their birthday suits along with DJ Girlina of Spa and significantly enhanced Heatherette muse Amanda Lepore — in a red garter belt and fishnets no less.
In yet another fashion show shuffle, @elleryland is moving its show in sync with the Paris couture calendar — though the brand is still keeping one foot on the city’s ready-to-wear schedule. Their runway show in January will coincide with the launch of a new strategy: designing two main collections each year instead of four, which will then be released in four drops. “As we all know, the system needs to change. We need to show sooner to give time back to artisans and designers to do what they do best — create,” said founder Kym Ellery. #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@maxmara’s classic 101801 coat was the cornerstone of its pre-fall 2018 collection. The design team expanded the traditional double-breasted, kimono-sleeved style into a trapeze coat, lean belted styles and a peacoat and presented them in monochromatic looks – like the camel one pictured here. #wwdfashion #prefall18 (📷: George Chinsee)
The @cfda has shifted the dates of #NYFW, with Men’s showing on February 5 through February 7, and Women’s will directly follow, running from February 8 through 14. The preliminary schedule will be released on the CFDA’s web site in the next few days, but Mark Beckham, VP of marketing for the CFDA, revealed that @rafsimons will be back to close the men’s-specific part of the week with a show on February 7 #wwdfashion (📷: Kelly Taub)
@ferragamo is introducing a new space dedicated to the development of women’s and men’s leather good samples. The laboratory, which is created eco-friendly materials and designed to reduce the environmental impact of the manufacturing processes, will allow the company to expand its accessories offering through traditional artisanal approaches. #wwdfashion (📷: @aitorrosasphoto)
How does a “regular, degular, schmegular” girl from the Bronx, N.Y., become a Grammy-nominated artist with a certified platinum record in less than a year? Call it the @iamcardib come up. The 25-year-old has become a musical sensation, and the fashion world is taking note. “If I could describe her style I would say drama. She’s really into the dramatics,” says Cardi B’s stylist @kollincarter. See how Carter styles her bold and out there looks with the link in bio. #wwdfashion
“There is no formula. There is no guideline. I can watch Ted Talks all day, but there is no one who can advise me on exactly what it is I should be doing,” said @ronniefieg, CEO of @kith, in an interview with WWD’s @ariahughes at the brand’s new SoHo office in Manhattan. Head to WWD.com to see how Fieg went from hanging out in shoe stockrooms at 13 to building his own business. #wwdfashion (📷: @weston.wells)
@fearofgod and @maxfieldla have teamed up on a pop-up installation. The store, located in the gallery space across from Maxfield’s Melrose Ave location, is the site of the brand’s House of God pop-up in which Fear of God founder @jerrylorenzo has created a church-inspired installation. A dozen vintage church pews sit in front of an LED screen playing 90s gospel singers in an effort to re-create an environment akin to a Southern Baptist Church, Lorenzo explained. Read more about the pop-up on WWD.com #wwdfashion (📷: Jennifer Johnson)
Known for his sleek, sophisticated American glamour, Norman Norell is the subject of an upcoming exhibition at @fitnyc. “Norell: Dean of American Fashion,” which runs from February 9 through April 14, will feature approximately 100 ensembles and accessories. His best work is exemplified by the designer’s glittering “mermaid” gowns frosted with thousands of hand-sewn sequins – like the one pictured. (📷: William Helburn) #wwdfashion
For pre-fall 2018, @balmain didn’t let go of the glitz. A crystal embroidered baseball jacket priced at around $40,000 hangs in the “couture” section of the brand’s first men’s pre-collection. Sporting the words “Balmain Army” across the back, the item took around two months to make. “When it was completed, it was like Christmas, it was like, ‘It’s done, it’s exactly what I wanted,’” said Balmain’s creative director @olivier_rousteing during a tour of the collection in a Paris showroom on Monday. #wwdfashion