TEENS AND QUEENS: Hoxton Bar & Kitchen opened its doors Sunday night to London’s teens, drag queens and some run-of-the-mill fashion folk to fete the launch of the McQ spring ad campaign. The campaign has been produced by a mix of art students, models, photographers and young creatives, who’d each been loaned some of the clothing – and asked to come up with an image for the season. McQueen himself chose the final images, which have been fly-posted around London, New York, and Tokyo. It’s the second ad campaign for McQ, which showed last week in New York. At the party, among the teens with glitter-faces and day-glow clothing, was none other than Kelly Osbourne. “I really love London Fashion Week. I’m going to see Giles Deacon, the new Marc by Marc Jacobs – and Julien Macdonald, even though he uses really thin models, I really love his clothes, they’re just beautiful,” she said.
HOLLAND’S HOUSEMATES: Henry Holland, the London whippersnapper behind the t-shirts that poke fun at fashion designers – as in “Get a tickle from Richard Nicoll,” and “Get Yer Freak on with Giles Deacon” – is already accessorizing. He’s collaborated with Mulberry designer Stuart Vevers on a line of canvas tote bags, under the label House of Holland and Stuart Vevers. The bags will come in Holland’s signature day-glo colors, and be printed with slogans in homage to Vevers. And that’s not all: Holland has teamed up with Kickers to design the footwear for his very first show this season. Dubbed the Kick HOH, the patent leather retro shoes come in eye-popping color combinations,including turquoise and pink. A limited number of pairs went on sale in Dover Street Market Monday – the day of his show. After London Fashion Week, they’ll wholesale alongside the line of t-shirts Holland presented for fall. Meanwhile, Holland’s spring collection of designer slogan t-shirts will go on sale at Barneys and Harvey Nichols later this month.
GREEN SLEEVES: “We’re sacking the sackcloth! This is the end of ethical fashion as fringe,” said Matilda Lee, editor of The Ecologist magazine’s new 48-page guide to ethical fashion. The booklet, released Sunday, profiles the eco-friendly labels on show at The Exhibition, the trade show that takes place in tandem with London Fashion Week. The cover features Lily Cole wearing a sackcloth – that’s been carefully shaped into a strapless dress. Inside, there are stories on climate change, the global garment workforce, tips for “greening” your wardrobe and eco-fabrics of the future. Jute jackets, anyone? The booklet also profiles the designers who are taking part in Estethica, the eco-fashion zone at The Exhibition. Esthethica showcases clothing labels that are fashion-forward and eco-friendly, fair-trade-focused or organic.
CATCHING THEIR BREATH: Suzanne Clements and Inacio Ribeiro, who showed their last signature rtw collection in London in September, 2005, are making a quiet comeback. First, they’ve unveiled a footwear collection for fall – full Deco-inspired details, wooden heels, brass studding and leather-covered buttons. Ribeiro said the two were channeling turn-of-the-last-century Vienna. The couple, who liquidated their firm in the summer of 2005 after falling out with their Italian clothing manufacturer, are also at work on other projects, including an upcoming collection for Couture Lab, the London-based retailer specializing in luxury, season-less, one-off collections; and collaborations with Iittala (eds: spel is correct), the Finnish tableware and gift company, and Blossom, the London children’s clothing company. They are also mulling opening a London store, but Ribeiro said it would be a low-key operation, where the two could focus on custom work and alterations. “We’re plotting,” he said. “We don’t want to wholesale our clothing in the future, and we don’t want to be a brand. We want to pay more attention to our clients.”
BUCCELLATI’S DEBUT: Gianmaria Buccellati, the Milanese jewelry house famous for its filigree, latticework and honeycomb designs, is setting up shop this week in a former bomb shelter next to Brown’s Hotel on Albemarle Street. It’s the first London outpost for the brand, which already has stores in 14 cities worldwide. It’s also the first Buccellati store to open with an outside partner, John Kelly, an American banker determined to bring the Buccellati name to London. The 270 square foot store is housed in the former World War II shelter where Sir Winston Churchill used to take refuge – and where he held some wartime meetings. The company had to remove 100 tons of concrete before moving in the custom-made wooden furniture, Murano glass chandelier – and before painting the ceiling with a Michelangelo-esque cloud fresco. The store was originally going to be branded Federico Buccellati – a jewelry house owned by another branch of the feuding Italian family – but that deal fizzled. Word has it that chauffeurs, butlers and various private staffers from the homes of London’s rich and famous have already been sent to the store on reconnaissance missions.
LUFF GETS TOUGH: Britain’s debate over size zero models just got a little hotter. Peter Luff, a Conservative Member of Britain’s Parliament and chairman of the trade and industry select committee, is mulling a formal inquiry into the size zero issue. Any investigations would see fashion industry leaders, magazine editors, and modeling agents having to give evidence. “Stella McCartney is a constituent of mine, so I might even ask her, too,” Luff told WWD. He said the idea was still in its early stages, and a formal inquiry is by no means a given. However, if the committee decides to pursue the matter fully, it would eventually propose to the government how it could – and should – regulate the public sector element of the fashion industry.
For complete coverage see tomorrow’s issue of WWD.