PARIS — The beat of war drums overshadowed the typically carefree ambience at the fall-winter 2003-2004 Salon International de la Lingerie trade show here.

Despite the requisite chocolates, champagne and disco music resounding from a number of the exhibitors’ booths, where fashion shows were staged continuously, an eerie disquiet permeated the air, as retailers, manufacturers and distributors went through the motions of buying, selling and schmoozing.

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