NEW YORK — This fall, Salvatore Ferragamo is letting the other shoe drop in the beauty market.
This story first appeared in the May 16, 2003 issue of WWD. Subscribe Today.
After switching U.S. distributors in January, Ferragamo is putting in place the next piece of its strategy — a new women’s scent, called Incanto, which will launch globally at the end of August.
The launch marks a point of departure from Ferragamo’s past fragrance launches, in which the scents were first released in Europe, then rolled out to the U.S. Incanto will hit all of Ferragamo’s fragrance markets simultaneously — a mark of not only how important the U.S. market is to the brand, but also how important the fragrance category is to the fashion house.
“Fragrance is an integral part of a worldwide strategy at Salvatore Ferragamo, and critical to our company’s development as a global luxury brand,” said Massimo Ferragamo, chairman of Ferragamo USA. “Incanto embodies the Ferragamo Group’s commitment to the perfume sector.” The fragrance’s name means “enchantment” in Italian.
The scent, a floral and woody fragrance with fruity undertones, was developed by Laurent Bruyere of International Flavors and Fragrances. It opens with top notes of velvety peach skin, plum and Jamaican pepper; middle notes of red lily, jasmine, peony, ambrette and cassis, and a drydown of white musks, sandalwood and amber.
The bottle, designed by Serge Mansau, is a clear crystal oval with an elliptical cap. The fragrance name, Incanto, is inscribed in red on the front of the flaçon, with Salvatore Ferragamo’s signature in gold on the back of the bottle. The cartons are brushed silver with a metallic gold square and the signature red Salvatore Ferragamo graphics.
“The U.S. launch will be very strategic —?we’re planning a very slow and targeted rollout with quality partners,” said Alison Farn, president of Gary Farn Ltd. “No one’s in a hurry — we want to build on what’s so important to Ferragamo, high image and quality.” Farn took over Ferragamo’s U.S. distribution from Fragrances Exclusive International at the beginning of the year.
In the U.S., the fragrance will be available only in Saks Fifth Avenue’s 90 doors and Ferragamo’s 18 domestic boutiques until December. In January, the distribution will be expanded to Nordstrom and Neiman Marcus, and possibly other retailers, such as Sephora and Bloomingdale’s, said Farn. Distribution of the scent, she said, should top out at no more than 400 doors. While neither Farn nor Ferragamo would comment on projected U.S. sales, industry sources estimated that the scent could do $4 million at retail in its first year on counter.
In the U.S., the eau de parfum will be available in two sizes —?a 1.7-oz. bottle for $69 and a 3.4-oz. size for $94. (A 1-oz. bottle will be offered for sale internationally but not in the U.S.) A 10-ml. perfume also will be offered, for $109, and will be released in November. Two ancillaries also will be offered at launch: Enchanting Moisturizing Body Lotion and Enchanting Bath and Shower Gel. Both contain the proprietary Sea Silk complex, a blend of two amino acid-rich algaes.The body lotion retails for $49 for a 6.8-oz. size and the shower gel retails for $40 for a 6.8-oz. size.
Co-op advertising is planned with Saks Fifth Avenue — including scented strips in the retailer’s fall shoe catalog and a placement in a November ad piece for Vogue —and the fragrance also will appear in Ferragamo’s omnibus advertising in fall fashion magazines, noted Farn. The ad was shot by Philippe Salomon and features model Eugenia Volodina in a fairy-like pose.
About two million scented impressions also are slated for the fall, Farn added.