NEW YORK — Even in these challenging times, with comparable-store sales and quarterly profits suffering and heightened economic and political uncertainty, a group of apparel executives said success is still achievable by staying true to core...
NEW YORK — Even in these challenging times, with comparable-store sales and quarterly profits suffering and heightened economic and political uncertainty, a group of apparel executives said success is still achievable by staying true to core strengths, but being nimble enough to adapt to today’s realities.
"Decisions made today in this new climate could bring success in tough times," Joyce Brown, president of the Fashion Institute of Technology, said at the start of the three-hour "Success in Tough Times" conference, held Wednesday at FIT.
Generally conservative in their outlooks for the rest of the year, executives from Jones Apparel Group, Diesel USA, Federated Merchandising Group and Reebok International prescribed tough medicine for the ailing industry. They offered various strategies — including better customer service, increased marketing and product differentiation — to win market share.
Outlining four key strategies for 2002, Janet Grove, chairman and chief executive officer of Federated Merchandising Group, said, "championing change is the priority." She said further editing and narrowing its assortments, improving the shopping experience with better fitting rooms, enhancing signage, centralizing checkouts, simplifying pricing and fine-tuning marketing strategies should help the department store chain become more competitive for its time-starved customers seeking ease and speed.
Another avenue for Federated to drive sales, Grove said, is to offer newness within its private branded business, which is expected to generate 16 percent of its total volume this year.
Peter Boneparth, ceo of Jones, said retailers need to focus on inventory turnover and not inventory-building to ring up more sales with fewer customers. "Take what you are good at, but make it better," he said.
Boneparth said Jones has the advantage of its size, product diversity and brand recognition to help it continue to grow, noting the debut of its Easy Spirit casual apparel line for fall. Boneparth said he believes Jones, which acquired LEI and Gloria Vanderbilt this year, still has opportunities in the discount and younger channels to further diversify and balance the New York-based apparel giant. (For more on Jones, see page 9.)
While Federated and Jones have a storied history and have proven themselves resilient in difficult times, new players to the industry face a more daunting challenge. Emanuel Weintraub, a retail consultant, said because of this ultracompetitive environment, his firm predicts that "within five years time, 25 percent of firms doing less than $200 million in volume will either merge or liquidate.Obviously not wanting his jeans company to fall into that category, Andreas Kurz, ceo of Diesel USA, said his advice for retailers trying to keep afloat during these choppy times is concentrate on their company’s strengths.
"We are in an emotional business," he said. "Help people out of their misery and give them a reason to buy."
Other remedies, he said, include offering fresh and innovative merchandise rather than back-to-basics, and increasing advertising.
"Business in tough times is the same as business in good times," Kurz said. "Business is never not tough."
“Azzedine has been one of the biggest influences in my life. He has always been such a strong, loving, fatherly figure to me. I call him Papa. His designs are indescribably unique, they are pieces of art. He knew how to make the female form look its loveliest. I have so many memories of him; my favorite might be during my first show with him in Paris. He liked me and he wanted to help me get more work. He called all his friends at Kenzo and Comme des Garcons, and asked them to book me. They said, ‘But she can’t walk!’ And he said, ‘but she has such a great ass!' His friendship and support has been the great privilege of my career. I can't imagine life without him. Repose en paix mon Papa.” - @stephanieseymour tells @wwd. #wwdfashion (📷: @steveeichner) #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa, flanked by two of his closest friends, models Stephanie Seymour and Naomi Campbell.
He designed Seymour’s dress for her 1995 wedding to Peter Brant, and treated Campbell (who famously called him Papa), like a daughter. For more on the legendary designer, tap the link in bio. #wwdfashion #alaia #azzedinealaia
Azzedine Alaïa's “I-did-it-my-way” ethos stood out starkly at a time when brands are experimenting with consumer-facing fashion shows, coed formats and trans-seasonal collections – anything to perk up lackluster sales of ready-to-wear in an age of Insta-everything. “It’s not creation anymore. This becomes a purely industrial approach,” the late designer told WWD in an interview last year. “But anyway, the rhythm of collections is so stupid. It’s unsustainable. There are too many collections.” Read more about the iconic designer’s life and work on wwd.com, link in bio. #wwdfashion #azzedinealaia (📷: @WWD Archive, 1986) #alaia
Sneaker reselling app @goat’s latest exhibit, "The Greatest: New York," tells the story of New York's sneaker culture. To celebrate the exhibit, an intimate crowd gathered on Thursday night at the pop-up gallery space, located at Platform in Culver City, to hear guest speaker and illustrator @esymai talk about her own rise in streetwear and women in the business. "For me I'm just someone who is creative. I like to create things," said Chang. #wwdfashion
Azzedine Alaïa, one of the most iconic couturiers of the modern era whose body-con designs defined Eighties fashion, has died in Paris. The diminutive Tunisian-born designer, known for his structured knitted dresses with fitted waists and impeccably cut, figure-hugging second skin silhouettes was deeply admired by his peers, and counted supermodel Naomi Campbell - his adoptive daughter - among his inner circle, one of a gang of glamazons including Farida Khelfa, Carla Bruni and Stephanie Seymour who became ambassadors of his style. (📷: Alexandre Guirkinger) #wwdblast