The Twenties and Thirties inspired the looks Charlotte Tilbury and Guido Palau created for Donna Karan’s show Friday.
Tilbury, working for MAC Cosmetics, focused on the lips. She mixed MAC Mattine lip colors in Lush and Rapturous, then used her index finger to apply them to the lips. Next, Tilbury applied a slightly darker bordeaux shade in the inner center of the lips, blending softly. “It’s intended to make the models look like they’ve been eating berries,” Tilbury explained.
Elsewhere on the face, Tilbury used a hint of moisturizer at the cheekbones and concealer on the nose and under the eyes to give the illusion of perfect skin, and very fair models got a tiny bit of brown mascara on their top lashes.
Palau, working for Redken, applied Redken’s Thickening to give the hair “guts” — “updos hold better if hair’s not squeaky-clean,” he explained — parted hair on the side, then created a low ponytail. Next, Palau wrapped the ponytail around a rat (spongy pieces of netting) and rolled the hair under, pinning it up loosely to resemble a flapper’s bob.
“I want the hair to fall out in a few places in back, so we’re not pinning things too tight,” Palau explained. A bobby pin near the face kept hair from falling in the eyes. Palau finished with a spritz of Kérastase hairspray.