Karl Lagerfeld: It’s a good thing the day started absolument beau, weather-wise, because security at Karl Lagerfeld’s 9:30 a.m. show kept top editors and buyers waiting outside. Once everyone entered — merci beaucoup, Ingrid Sischy, who turned impromptu press agent, helping the fashion folk in — we learned why, because vacuum-toting ladies were still Hoover-ing the venue. Finally, with the floor spick-and-span perfect, the show began.
Throughout, there was the usual streak of Goth, accented this time with a punkish rebel-yell vibe. There were two-tone bandana-cum-fishtail coiffures, Eighties-centric mesh underpinnings, neon driving gloves and more colorfully electric (and frightening) lengthy press-on nails. But get past those extras and you’ll find some fine tailored numbers. Case in point: the jackets, which came every which way — boxy and masculine, aggressive in leather, or with a whiff of the military. And Lagerfeld certainly knows how to cut a mean shirtdress, such as the one prettily pleated down the sleeves. Come evening, however, that Morticia-esque styling, complete with fishnets, fingerless gloves and clunky boots, got in the way again, dulling even the most bejeweled evening gowns.
Dries Van Noten: Who isn’t fascinated by the inner workings of staging a fashion show? On Wednesday, Dries Van Noten put the process on view. A mere scrim separated the audience from the backstage area, allowing full view of all pre-show goings-on, from makeup to hair to dressing. But anyone expecting to glimpse last-minute panic attacks, frenzy or fumbles would have had to try another show, because Van Noten’s backstage area was utterly serene and controlled, making it the perfect backdrop for his exquisite clothes.
“It’s elegant sportswear mixed with an Indian influence for a strong woman,” the designer said before the voyeuristic romp. The result was a collection that infused high function with an element of intrigue, while never giving in to too-obvious exotica. The sportif revealed itself in quilted puffers, silk anoraks and athletic-esque jackets; the Eastern influence, in gentle, vaguely sari-inspired dresses and skirts plus a plethora of paisleys, both photo-printed and embroidered, and intricate allover, mosaic-like embellishments. Colors came in a mustard/saffron spice story as well as rich jewel-tone blues, purples and deep reds. Van Noten worked the two sides together seamlessly, pairing, layering and contrasting with a surety that boiled down to a single element: beautiful clothes.Comme des Garçons: Betcha didn’t think of Rei Kawakubo as a girly girl, right? Well then, be prepared to have your preconceptions shattered, because Kawakubo’s fall collection was all pinky, purple-y pretty, with an unleash-your-inner-child angle, no less. Then, again, perhaps this most intellectual of designers was offering some cryptic, deep-thought commentary on women who can’t leave childhood behind, who long to find naive safety beneath a big pair of mouse ears.
Either way, Kawakubo’s musings made for delightful viewing, from the striped anklets right up to those deranged Disney chapeaux. Fall season aside, Easter is right around the corner, and Kawakubo seemed to have raided the bunny’s dye supply before moving on to Suzy Lou Who’s closet, filled with frothy baby-scale frocks, there for the pilfering. She appliquéd these onto curvy stretch shapes that formed the base of the collection.
Of course, since time stands still for no one, Kawakubo left the obvious baby stuff behind to move on to padding. No, not like in the Quasimodo days of yore, but in a more sedate manner, popping out giant bows and dots and against a torso, or positioning stuffed gloves as if to grasp a jacket closed against a breeze. Champions of pillow clothes will no doubt find these the epitome of chic. As for everyone else, Kawakubo always surprises and gets us to think, and this time outdid that with charm to spare. Only a fashion grinch could argue with that.
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews