LOS ANGELES — Tom Ford, sharing his thoughts on fashion and creativity, said: “Nothing made me happier than to see something that I had done copied.’’
Reflecting on his days at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, the designer said: “Appropriation has always been a trend. The clues to where we are going to be next year are here now.”
Ford was among the key players from the worlds of fashion, music, entertainment and academia who gathered Saturday at the Norman Lear Center at the University of Southern California for a conference titled “Ready to Share: Fashion and the Ownership of Creativity.”
The daylong event drew participants such as fashion designer Kevan Hall, vintage guru Cameron Silver, “Sex and the City” creator Michael Patrick King and music innovator T-Bone Burnett.
Mixing panel discussions with small-scale fashion demos, the conference highlighted how much of popular culture is rooted in things that have been in the public domain, and when legal protections work.
Hall, formerly Halston’s design and creative director who now keeps an atelier in Los Angeles, showcased dresses from his spring-summer 2005 collection, which he conceded were derivative of the Madeleine Vionnet and Jacques Fath dresses favored by Millicent Rogers and the Duchess of Windsor, who served as his historical muses for the collection. “It’s all about the gesture of the look,” he said.
Silver, owner of vintage boutique Decades in L.A. and creative consultant to Paris house Azzaro, showed how an $80,000 Chanel couture jacket had been reinterpreted by numerous fashion labels.
David Wolfe, creative director of the trend and color forecasting company The Doneger Group, described fashion as “a fragile creative ecosystem.” He said major future trends would include a dilution of the current obsession with “flashy, trashy, vulgar” celebrities, and an inclination toward natural beauty, purity of design and more voluminous clothing.
David Bollier, a senior fellow at the Norman Lear Center and co-founder of advocacy group Public Knowledge, said the event proved “the ecology of creativity matters at least as much as individual genius. How our access to the past interworks with the culture at large is important. Creators need to have the ability to draw from our cultural legacy.
EXCLUSIVE: @tomford is opening its first-ever beauty store. The boutique, which opens November 20 in London’s Covent Gardens, was designed with the over-the-top glam Ford is known for. Read the full story on WWD.com, link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews (📷: Simon Wagner) #TomFordBeauty
New York-based DJ @harleyvnewton threw a party to celebrate the holiday collection of her dress and pajama line @hvn at the Ladurée Beverly Hills. It Girls @katebosworth, @rashidajones and more joined in on the fun, which included cocktails, croque monsieur sandwiches and a photo booth. #wwdfashion (📷: Owen Kolasinski/BFA.com)
For the holidays, @Burberry partnered with 20-year-old artist @blondeymccoy on a series of three outdoor murals in downtown Manhattan. The murals are McCoy’s interpretation of a Christmas eve party, the idea of charity and the spirit of family. His third mural, pictured here, is the most personal. The image depicts McCoy’s grandparents and father in London’s Trafalgar Square in the Seventies. “My work often features lots of sentimental objects.” #wwdeye
For spring 2018, designers applied bold colors and cartoonish motifs on everything from sneakers and belts to key chains. See all the top men’s accessories trends on WWD.com. #wwdtrends (📷: George Chinsee; Prop Styling by @rnasti; Market Editor: @luiscampuzano)
The @dior-sponsored @guggenheim international gala pre-party has a history of drawing cool-girl musical acts to serenade the crowd –– and last night was no exception. @haimtheband performed songs both new and old, and lured a star-studded audience with the likes of Rebecca Hall, Kate Mara, Mamoudou Athie and more. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
In a partnership between the @metopera and the @englishnationalopera, “Marnie” was born. The opera, with costumes sponsored by @mrporterlive, is an adaptation of the 1961 thriller by Winston Graham. Arianne Phillips, who created the costumes, is no rookie: She’s styled Madonna for her tours and created costumes for a myriad of films in the past. Read WWD’s interview with Phillips, where she talks about her inspiration for the opera’s costumes on WWD.com #wwdfashion
@barneysnyc took a different approach to their holiday windows this year. Instead of Christmas decor, Barneys tapped @thehaasbrothers to tell a story of positivity, gratitude and inclusivity via heartwarming silliness and humor. “It’s about kids and it’s about coming together and being family and loving each other,” said Simon Haas. #wwdfashion (📷: @joshuascottphoto)
Beauty influencer @kandeejohnson makes her foray into hair care with a collaboration with @ogx_beauty — making it the first time that OGX has teamed up for a product creation. The collab includes shampoos and conditioners in three scents. At 39 and a mom, Johnson is a different profile than the emerging social media stars, but is considered one of the pioneers of the digital beauty influencer world. Read WWD’s interview with her on wwd.com, including the strangest beauty product she’s ever tried #wwdbeauty