LOS ANGELES — Tom Ford, sharing his thoughts on fashion and creativity, said: “Nothing made me happier than to see something that I had done copied.’’
Reflecting on his days at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, the designer said: “Appropriation has always been a trend. The clues to where we are going to be next year are here now.”
Ford was among the key players from the worlds of fashion, music, entertainment and academia who gathered Saturday at the Norman Lear Center at the University of Southern California for a conference titled “Ready to Share: Fashion and the Ownership of Creativity.”
The daylong event drew participants such as fashion designer Kevan Hall, vintage guru Cameron Silver, “Sex and the City” creator Michael Patrick King and music innovator T-Bone Burnett.
Mixing panel discussions with small-scale fashion demos, the conference highlighted how much of popular culture is rooted in things that have been in the public domain, and when legal protections work.
Hall, formerly Halston’s design and creative director who now keeps an atelier in Los Angeles, showcased dresses from his spring-summer 2005 collection, which he conceded were derivative of the Madeleine Vionnet and Jacques Fath dresses favored by Millicent Rogers and the Duchess of Windsor, who served as his historical muses for the collection. “It’s all about the gesture of the look,” he said.
Silver, owner of vintage boutique Decades in L.A. and creative consultant to Paris house Azzaro, showed how an $80,000 Chanel couture jacket had been reinterpreted by numerous fashion labels.
David Wolfe, creative director of the trend and color forecasting company The Doneger Group, described fashion as “a fragile creative ecosystem.” He said major future trends would include a dilution of the current obsession with “flashy, trashy, vulgar” celebrities, and an inclination toward natural beauty, purity of design and more voluminous clothing.
David Bollier, a senior fellow at the Norman Lear Center and co-founder of advocacy group Public Knowledge, said the event proved “the ecology of creativity matters at least as much as individual genius. How our access to the past interworks with the culture at large is important. Creators need to have the ability to draw from our cultural legacy.
@pantone announced their Color of the Year 2018: Ultra Violet. Nearly 20 months after the musician Prince’s death, fashion is having a purple moment. Varying shades of purple appeared on spring or fall runways, from @christopherkane to @calvinklein. @gucci’s Alessandro Michele bathed his fall runway in ultra violet-colored light at one point. Pantone 18-3838 is meant to “push the boundaries of what inspires us to look upward and outward to the future.” #wwdnews #wwdfashion (📷: @kukukuba)
@badgalriri’s @fentybeauty launch in September was a massive success on social media, powering $72.9 million of earned media value, according to Tribe Dynamics. The brand’s foundation offering sparked conversations about diversity in beauty, launching the growth of emerging influencers and propelling the brand’s support on social media. Today, #fentybeauty won Launch of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📷: Chema Moya/EPE-EFE)
@marianna_hewitt has become one of the most influential content creators in the beauty space, with almost 800,000 Instagram followers and a newly launched skin care line called @SummerFridays. Today, she was awarded Influencer of the Year at the WWD #BeautyIncAwards. (📸: @sophiachabbott )
As shopping behaviors evolve, the retail experience must follow. Head over to retail experts @colliersinternational’s Knowledge Leader series to read more about the shift in our shopping era. #colliersretail #lovecolliers
@prada opened a pop-up club, called Prada Double Club, in collaboration with German artist Cartsen Höller at @artbasel Miami. Last night, guests – including @youngparis, @ritaora and even Miuccia Prada herself – gathered in a former ice factory where the pop-up is housed for a performance from @wyclefjean. Go to WWD.com for full coverage on all the exhibits, parties and more at #ArtBaselMiami. #wwdeye (📷: @lexieblacklock)
@louboutinworld and @disney are making magic once again, creating a set of shoe designs for the release of “Star Wars: The Last Jedi.” Louboutin designed a pair of shoes for each of the film’s four female leads: Rey (@daisyridrey), Vice Admiral Amilyn Holdo (@lauradern), Captain Phasma (Gwendoline Christie) and Rose Tico (@kellymarietran). The shoes will debut on Saturday at the L.A. premiere of the latest episode. #wwdfashion
Today at the #BeautyIncAwards 2017, WWD will be joined by beauty leaders from around the world as we honor this year's most innovative people, products, brands and places. Follow along here and on Twitter for live coverage from the exclusive event. #wwdsummits (📷: @elizaflorendo)
Exclusive: Beauty superinfluencer @marianna_hewitt is launching her first-ever skin care brand with her business partner @laurengores. Their new line Summer Fridays, which will be sold exclusively at summerfridays.com starting in January, is launching with just one product – a hydrating cream Jet Lag Mask. “We wanted to focus on one product that was amazing,” said Hewitt. Read the full interview on WWD.com. Link in bio. #wwdbeauty #wwdnews
Michelin star-rated chef PJ Calapa marks his first solo endeavor with today’s opening of @scampinyc –– the new Southern Italian restaurant located in Manhattans’ Flatiron District. The upscale yet welcoming environment matches the menu, which includes two types of scampi: traditional Italian langoustines in butter and the Americanized version with shrimp over pasta 🍤 - pictured here. #wwdeye (📷: George Chinsee)