LOS ANGELES — Tom Ford, sharing his thoughts on fashion and creativity, said: “Nothing made me happier than to see something that I had done copied.’’
Reflecting on his days at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent, the designer said: “Appropriation has always been a trend. The clues to where we are going to be next year are here now.”
Ford was among the key players from the worlds of fashion, music, entertainment and academia who gathered Saturday at the Norman Lear Center at the University of Southern California for a conference titled “Ready to Share: Fashion and the Ownership of Creativity.”
The daylong event drew participants such as fashion designer Kevan Hall, vintage guru Cameron Silver, “Sex and the City” creator Michael Patrick King and music innovator T-Bone Burnett.
Mixing panel discussions with small-scale fashion demos, the conference highlighted how much of popular culture is rooted in things that have been in the public domain, and when legal protections work.
Hall, formerly Halston’s design and creative director who now keeps an atelier in Los Angeles, showcased dresses from his spring-summer 2005 collection, which he conceded were derivative of the Madeleine Vionnet and Jacques Fath dresses favored by Millicent Rogers and the Duchess of Windsor, who served as his historical muses for the collection. “It’s all about the gesture of the look,” he said.
Silver, owner of vintage boutique Decades in L.A. and creative consultant to Paris house Azzaro, showed how an $80,000 Chanel couture jacket had been reinterpreted by numerous fashion labels.
David Wolfe, creative director of the trend and color forecasting company The Doneger Group, described fashion as “a fragile creative ecosystem.” He said major future trends would include a dilution of the current obsession with “flashy, trashy, vulgar” celebrities, and an inclination toward natural beauty, purity of design and more voluminous clothing.
David Bollier, a senior fellow at the Norman Lear Center and co-founder of advocacy group Public Knowledge, said the event proved “the ecology of creativity matters at least as much as individual genius. How our access to the past interworks with the culture at large is important. Creators need to have the ability to draw from our cultural legacy.
EXCLUSIVE: Two and half months after John Targon, cofounder and codesigner of Baja East, was hired as creative director of the contemporary division at Marc Jacobs, he has left the company, WWD has learned. Marc Jacobs International, which is owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, confirmed Targon’s departure in a statement: “John Targon is a talented designer and we appreciate the work he has done here. Ultimately working together did not make sense for the brand and we wish him the best.” Read the story by @jessiredale, link in bio. #wwdnews
@theluxurycollection is officially launching a collection, tapping Sofia Sanchez de Betak for the capsule. Over 30 styles will be featured in the Chufy x The Luxury Collection, debuting next month at Bergdorf Goodman, The Webster, FiveStory and more. De Betak, known as “@chufy,” drew inspiration for the collection from her trips to Japan in the past year #wwdfashion
@lhd, founder and CEO of @thewebster, has teamed up with @lebonmarcherivegauche for the European launch of her ready-to-wear line, LHD. The launch will come with an exclusive pop-up opening today that’s set to run through May 20. Located on the second floor, it carries her debut Miami-themed resort collection, launched in November as see-now-buy-now. #wwdfashion
@longchamp, which marks its 70th anniversary this year, just opened its biggest U.S. store on Manhattan’s Fifth Avenue. On the lower level there’s a floor-to-ceiling display of the brand’s iconic Le Pliage bag – in all of its different colors, shapes and sizes. Customers can also have their product personalized in-store by imprinting names, initials or emblems. #wwdfashion (📷: @ericmtownsend)
“Whenever I’m in that place of sound and music, I don’t have fear or nervousness…This album has a lot of themes of courage and boldness and I want to be the soundtrack for people’s lives. I’ll be so happy if [my songs] evoke strength in people, which I know music has done for me,” says @kimbramusic of her newest album “Primal Heart.” The New Zealand-born singer sat down with WWD to talk about her music, newest tour and connecting with hear fans — read more on WWD.com #wwdeye (📷: @jilliansollazzo)
Luxury handbag resale company @rebagofficial is planning to sell a rare collectible for $70,000: the @hermes White Crocodile Himalayan Birkin. The exclusive Birkin sold for about $100,000 in 2008, when @davidbeckham bought one for his wife @victoriabeckham to add to her collection. Read more about the rare Birkin on WWD.com #wwdaccessories
With her costume pearl necklace and what-you-see-is-what-you-get style, Barbara Bush, who died Tuesday at age 92, was a straight-shooter from start to finish.
Born Barbara Pierce in New York City, Bush served as the 37th first lady, as well as the country’s second lady from 1981 to 1989. In addition to being part of the longest presidential marriage — 73 years — Bush also had the unlikely distinction of having one son, George W., become the 43rd president and another son, Jeb, run unsuccessfully in 2016. Having served as second lady during the Reagan administration’s two terms and lived all over the world during her own husband’s ascending political career, Barbara Bush made it clear that literacy — not fashion — was her priority. Read more from Rosemary Feitelberg’s obituary on the late First Lady in WWD.com, link in bio. #barbarabush #wwdnews
Western and ’90s trends have influenced denim for fall 2018. Think raw, dark and coated jeans mixed with bold prints and tough leather. #trendtuesdays #wwdfashion (Styled by @thealexbadia;📷: @ryanplett)