NEW YORK — Carnal Flower, the newest scent from Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle, features a classic source of inspiration — tuberose — in a way that it has never been experienced before, according to the company.
"Every single person making a tuberose fragrance is trying to knock off the classic, which is Fracas," said head perfumer Frederic Malle. "I had an idea to create a fragrance that's very close to natural tuberose."
Malle describes the classic Fracas by Robert Piguet scent, created by perfumer Germaine Cellier in 1948, as "slightly mature and femme fatale." In contrast, he envisioned a version of the tuberose genre that "is very fresh and true to nature."
To create such a scent, Malle enlisted the talents of perfumer Dominique Ropion, who had come across a form of purified natural tuberose exclusive to the supplier International Flavors and Fragrances. This purified form, according to the company, is extremely close to the "odor of living tuberose." Launching in December, Carnal Flower took about two years to create, according to Malle, and features more natural tuberose absolute than any other fragrance on the market. Price points range from $155 for a 50-ml. spray to $230 for a 100-ml. spray.
The unique aroma of the tuberose flower had long been a source of inspiration to Malle, he explained. "I've always been interested in doing a tuberose fragrance — it's like a sexy flower scent," he said. "The other flower scents, roses, peonies, etc., are pretty, but they smell like flowers. They don't smell like skin at all — they don't have that warm, carnal aspect."
Carnal Flower features top notes of bergamot, melon and eucalyptus, middle notes of ylang-ylang and jasmine and a drydown of white musk cocktail, coconut, orange blossom absolute and tuberose absolute DM. "I see it as having a few layers cohabiting at the same time," said Malle. "It's like a musician editing a piece — we put some of the elements up and some of the elements down to turn it into a wearable perfume."
While Malle would not comment on sales figures, industry sources expect the scent to bring in up to $150,000 in retail sales in its first year (sources speculate the company does about $1 million in sales). And while Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle is currently sold exclusively through Barneys New York in the U.S., Malle said that he plans on opening freestanding stores Stateside for the brand in the next couple of years. He also plans three new stores in Paris by the end of this year."Barneys has been a very happy marriage and we've decided to stay true to each other for a very long time," he said. "But by the end of 2006 or beginning of 2007, it's very likely that we will open a shop in New York."
@tradesy is turning the concept of a showroom upside down with its new space in Santa Monica. Here, the company plans to hold events, art exhibits and a showcase rare fashion pieces like this Louis Vuitton boxing set. Get all the details on Tradesy’s first showroom on WWD.com. #wwdnews
Spotted last night at the @erdem x @hm launch event: Kate Bosworth, Rashida Jones, Kirsten Dunst and Selma Blair. The party, which took place in LA, also marked the opening of their pop-up shop. “I was interested in creating a collection that wasn’t in any way disposable. It was about pieces you’d create and keep forever, things that have a permanence to it,” designer Erdem Moralioglu said. #wwdeye (📷: Katie Jones)
Renee Zellweger in yellow in 2001 and again in 2017. Chosen as one of the 12 @pantone Leading Spring Colors (and dubbed “Meadowlark”), it only makes sense that the bright hue stands the test of time and is making a resurgence this season, seen already on stars like @blakelively and @gigihadid. (📷: Donato Sardello & @rexfeatures) #wwdfashion #tbt
Dior’s 70th anniversary celebration continues with a new exhibition at the Royal Ontario Museum in Toronto. “Christian Dior,” which is scheduled to run through March 18, takes a look at the founders tenure from 1947 to 1057 and feature 40 designs. Pictured here is an evening gown from the Ailée, fall 1948-49 haute couture collection. #wwdfashion (📷: Brian Boyle)
As one of the most recognizable models in the world, Christy Turlington Burns has an insider’s view of the fashion industry and the allegations of sexual harassment swirling around it. “I can say that harassment and mistreatment have always been widely known and tolerated in the industry. The industry is surrounded by predators who thrive on the constant rejection and loneliness so many of us have experiences at some point in our careers,” Turlington told WWD, along with her suggestions for how the modeling world should protect younger women and men. Read more on WWD.com. Link in bio. (📷: Tony Palmieri) #wwdnews
@asics America has tapped a new brand ambassador: famed DJ/record producer @steveaoki. This initiative is intended to set the tone for the new brand identity and philosophy and will include partnerships with influencers and in-store and off-line activations that will continue into next year. This is Asics’ most significant marketing effort in two decades, and is expected to attract younger consumers to the brand. #wwdfashion
24-year-old Jean Prounis is redefining the rules of jewelry. Formerly a studio assistant to Jemima Kirke and a design apprentice at Ghuran, she focuses on handcrafted subtleties and ancient goldsmithing techniques. “There was a really sterile feel in the environment and I wanted to have jewelry with character that shapes how you wear it everyday,” Prounis said. Each piece is hand made in New York, either by Prounis or three other jewelers in the district. #wwdfashion
“These collections continue to build on that vision, empowering differently abled adults to express themselves through fashion,” said @tommyhilfiger of his line of adaptive apparel, which launches today. The line consists of 37 men’s and 34 women’s styles based upon the pieces from the spring Tommy Hilfiger sportswear collection. #wwdnews