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French Beauty’s Holiday Spirit

In the hope of making this holiday season as festive - and profitable -as possible, beauty brands in Paris are in high launch mode.

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PARIS — In the hope of making this holiday season as festive — and profitable — as possible, beauty brands here are pulling out all the stops. They’re in high gear now, getting ready to introduce their new products over the next few weeks. Here are some of the brands in launch mode.

L’Artisan Parfumeur

New items for the niche brand are due to hit counters worldwide in November. These include:

  • A South America-inspired, eight-unit scented holiday collection including a floral fabric pompon scented with notes of raspberry and black currant, a vanilla-scented sachet and a collection of six spice-scented sachet. Prices range from $28 (euro 24) to $71 (euro 60). All dollar prices are converted from the euro at current exchange rates.

  • Le Bougie de Noël, a Christmas candle scented with ginger and cloves, will sell for $44 (37 euros).
  • Two fragrance coffrets — one for men and one for women —which include three 15-ml. eau de toilette sprays each. A coffret goes for $77 (65 euros).
  • The Bois Farine scent, created by Symrise’s Jean-Claude Ellena. The fragrance was inspired by the odor of a tree native to the island of Reunion. Its juice includes notes of flour, white wood and soothing balm. The scent comes in 50- and 100-ml. versions that will sell for $59 (50 euros) and $83 (70 euros), respectively.

There will also be a limited-edition coffret, which includes a 50-ml. bottle of Bois Farine, plus a travel log containing watercolor paintings by the perfumer. It will sell for $84 (71 euros).

While company executives refused to talk numbers, industry sources estimate the new L’Artisan products could generate $3 million to $4 million in retail sales in the first 12 months.

Annick Goutal

  • Three young art students won a competition to produce hand-painted, limited-edition, numbered bottles and candles for the Eau d’Hadrien brand. Eighteen thousand were produced altogether and will be on sale starting Dec. 1 in France’s Bon Marché, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, which picked up one candle and flacon each. In the U.S., Saks Fifth Avenue will carry one of the bottle-candle duos. The 100-ml. eau de parfum spray will sell for $294.50 (250 euros), while the 140-gram candle will be $53 (45 euros).

  • One hundred fifty Baccarat crystal, limited-edition, numbered bottles containing the L’Eau d’Hadrien eau de parfum will hit counters worldwide starting in November. Each 110-ml. flacon will sell for $883.60 (750 euros).
  • Les Nuits d’Hadrien, created by Camille Goutal and Isabelle Doyen, includes notes of bergamot, green mandarin, basil leaf and Egyptian cumin. The men’s and women’s scents will be introduced next month in France and the U.S., with the rest of Europe scheduled to get it in early 2004. The women’s 100-ml. eau de toilette spray will cost $90.70 (77 euros); the 50-ml. eau de toilette, $67.15 (57 euros), and the 50-ml. eau de parfum, $84.80 (72 euros). The 100-ml. eau de toilette version for men will be $76.60 (65 euros). Industry sources estimate some 10,000 bottles of each will be produced.
  • Crème Splendide, a 60-ml. day cream for the face, sells for $140.20 (119 euros). It’s currently being launched in Japan and will hit French perfumery counters in November and the rest of Europe next year. It will have an exclusive Bergdorf Goodman introduction in the U.S. in March 2004. As reported, some 3,000 jars could be sold by yearend, according to industry sources.

    By Terry

    By Terry will launch worldwide two limited-edition items starting in mid-November. The Coffret Compacte Poudre Pressee Strass d’Or, a 5-gram faux diamond-studded version of the signature By Terry rounded metallic compact, will sell for $342 (290 euros). It holds a gold-tinged pressed power. There’s also the Coffret Starlight Le Laboratoire de l’Eclat — in two color combinations — a veritable lab for mixing powders. Each contains five 1.5-gram containers of powders, which can be mixed and matched according to taste with the three beauty tools contained in its holder. The kit is priced at $176.70 (150 euros).

    About 500 of each coffret will be produced.

    The launch comes just after the recent introduction of By Terry’s 18-unit Rouge Opulent anti-age lipstick line. The products are purportedly replenishing and hydrafirming. The new lipsticks, which go for $57.70 (49 euros) each, also contain SPF 10.

    “The lipstick gives an absolute comfort and noble color,” explained Terry de Gunzburg, founder of By Terry.

    Guerlain

    LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned Guerlain will introduce worldwide in mid-October its second limited-edition Divinora makeup collection for the holidays. It’s called Or Serie — a play on the French “hors series” (“outstanding,” in English).

    “This season, I wanted a vie en rose for Christmas,” said Olivier Echaudemaison, art director for the brand. He called the look, which emphasizes pinks, “retro — but not too much so. It’s a wearable makeup for everyone.”

    The Or Serie lineup includes the 0.28-oz. Meteorites Voyage pressed face powder for $147.30 (125 euros), the 1.2-oz. Meteorites face powder for $44.80 (38 euros), two 0.2-oz. Gloss & Shine lip glosses for $23 (19.50 euros) each, the 0.35-oz. Divinora body and face powder for $42.40 (36 euros), the 0.04-oz. Ombre Eclat eye shadow for $27.10 (23 euros), plus two 0.14-oz. lipsticks for $24.15 (20.50 euros) each.

    Every product in the lineup has a production run ranging from 10,000 to 38,000 units each.

    Parfums Historiques

    Fragrances of yesteryear are getting a fresh breath of life, thanks to a new French brand called Les Parfums Historiques.

    The joint venture between Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier and perfumer Nicolas de Barry is dedicated to re-creating scents from the past that are linked to historical personages.

    First in the line is an interpretation of a scent worn by 19th-century French writer George Sand. The fragrance — which contains top notes of lemon and bergamot; middle notes of patchouli, rose and amber, and base notes of musk and Mysore sandalwood — was created using information in Sand’s correspondences plus two bottles of fragrance she wore.

    Coming next year in the Sand collection is a soap based on the one that Sand had concocted.

    The George Sand scent will be distributed in 240 sales points worldwide, starting in France this month. U.S. distribution, including Nordstrom and Henri Bendel, will start in November.

    Industry sources estimate George Sand will ring up $770,000 to $924,000 in retail sales its first year.

    The 70-ml. eau de parfum spray will sell in France for $77 (65 euros).

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